What heads for my small block
05-23-2011 | 10:39 AM
#11
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Uncle Dave:
Those are excellent numbers and results from a 406 small block!
If this boater can get at or close to those numbers from his small block using your specs and examples, he will be a very happy camper!
Learn and profit from someone else's excellent design and results and you will be way ahead, don't re-invent the wheel!
Best Regards,
Ray @ Raylar
Those are excellent numbers and results from a 406 small block!
If this boater can get at or close to those numbers from his small block using your specs and examples, he will be a very happy camper!
Learn and profit from someone else's excellent design and results and you will be way ahead, don't re-invent the wheel!
Best Regards,
Ray @ Raylar
I have to give the credit for the combo to the engine builder. An old drag racing guy named Dick Gazan thats been doing it since I was forming eyelids.
Your LSM 550 is an awesome package I would love to have the money to buy!
UD
05-23-2011 | 03:16 PM
#12
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Im guessing it needs race gas and is setup for car though.
I asked my builder about a 430+ setup and he told me they make great power but have issues with wear which I thought was strange, but recited stuff about getting there with stroke causing rod angle issues.
I was originally interested in 454 SB short block with my heads, but stuck with my old "garage special" 406.
UD
05-24-2011 | 02:37 AM
#13
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Lets back up a bit.
What kind of drive system in a "stinger 202"?
How much does it weigh? If you get past 70-75 with a heavy boat it want to run anymore without hydraulic steering - have you provisioned for that?
What kind of HP and torque are you expecting to get at what RPM range. what kind of exhaust are you going to be running - the factory stuff will flatten your engine and choke it so you will need a good aftermarket exhaust.
Aluminum vs Iron heads will either save you possible detonation if you get a tank of lousy gas (always a possibility with a boat) r let you run more static compression to begin with.
If you have the short block apart you might as well build in some bigger cubes.
I have much experience with small blocks and boats.
Uncle Dave
What kind of drive system in a "stinger 202"?
How much does it weigh? If you get past 70-75 with a heavy boat it want to run anymore without hydraulic steering - have you provisioned for that?
What kind of HP and torque are you expecting to get at what RPM range. what kind of exhaust are you going to be running - the factory stuff will flatten your engine and choke it so you will need a good aftermarket exhaust.
Aluminum vs Iron heads will either save you possible detonation if you get a tank of lousy gas (always a possibility with a boat) r let you run more static compression to begin with.
If you have the short block apart you might as well build in some bigger cubes.
I have much experience with small blocks and boats.
Uncle Dave
Im not sure what the boat weighs... but I towed it home at 80 mph behind a 4cyl toyota tacoma.. And it was lifting off the trailer. So, lets just call it light...
I will be dealing with the drive system later, it had through hull exhaust and I will be looking for higher flowing manifolds later on in the project.
I have a displacement limit on my lake at 360Cu in..
Id rather pay a little extra and get an all new head than deal with digging parts out of boneyards that have been well used up and need a lot of work done to them.
So let's limit this to aftermarket Iron heads.. 165's might be a tad small and 230's are probably too big. Am I wrong on this?
05-24-2011 | 08:43 AM
#14
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Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 1,181
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From: Vancouver BC
Wow thats a nasty piece for sure! Big fun.
Im guessing it needs race gas and is setup for car though.
I asked my builder about a 430+ setup and he told me they make great power but have issues with wear which I thought was strange, but recited stuff about getting there with stroke causing rod angle issues.
I was originally interested in 454 SB short block with my heads, but stuck with my old "garage special" 406.
UD
Im guessing it needs race gas and is setup for car though.
I asked my builder about a 430+ setup and he told me they make great power but have issues with wear which I thought was strange, but recited stuff about getting there with stroke causing rod angle issues.
I was originally interested in 454 SB short block with my heads, but stuck with my old "garage special" 406.
UD
434 right it's no problem. For forced induction I like the 406 better.
05-24-2011 | 10:00 AM
#15
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The boat is quite a project.. and I am taking it one step at a time. from the inside, out
Im not sure what the boat weighs... but I towed it home at 80 mph behind a 4cyl toyota tacoma.. And it was lifting off the trailer. So, lets just call it light...
I will be dealing with the drive system later, it had through hull exhaust and I will be looking for higher flowing manifolds later on in the project.
I have a displacement limit on my lake at 360Cu in..
Id rather pay a little extra and get an all new head than deal with digging parts out of boneyards that have been well used up and need a lot of work done to them.
So let's limit this to aftermarket Iron heads.. 165's might be a tad small and 230's are probably too big. Am I wrong on this?
Im not sure what the boat weighs... but I towed it home at 80 mph behind a 4cyl toyota tacoma.. And it was lifting off the trailer. So, lets just call it light...
I will be dealing with the drive system later, it had through hull exhaust and I will be looking for higher flowing manifolds later on in the project.
I have a displacement limit on my lake at 360Cu in..
Id rather pay a little extra and get an all new head than deal with digging parts out of boneyards that have been well used up and need a lot of work done to them.
So let's limit this to aftermarket Iron heads.. 165's might be a tad small and 230's are probably too big. Am I wrong on this?
I wouldnt expect any real gains until you do the exhaust manifolds with a quality aftermarket unit - so Id try to save up and time it so they both get done.
( SB marine exhaust is one of the harder components to find used)
I ask about the drive because Im suspecting its an i/o which means the unit needs to idle at around 800 RPM which means no big cams/ head ports or runners.
UD
