From what I understand, the old impellers were TRASHED and were replaced with stcck Mercs. I agree it still does not explain the higher pressures. All three motors showed the same psi give or take a lb, and all 3 impellers were changed.

pb,
Is this Eddies boat you did this too?

Mark

Yup, I met Wolffie down there yesterday since I had the relief valves. I played tool *****. I do not mind I love this stuff.

Paul

I ended up ordering a relief valve from Teague last week.
$67 valve, $34 next day shipping. I though that they had their own design.There was a name printed right on the valve, Watts Regulator. Looked up this valve on the manufactures website, low and behold, there it was. But it couldn't have been........they sell them for only $27 AAAAUUUUUUGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHH!

Still sore

What is the model number for that watts valve?

530. Mine is the 1/2" model. Teague does not recommend 3/4.

http://www.solardirect.com/swh/aet/s...s/swhparts.htm

Manufacture website:
http://www.wattsreg.com/valvelookup/

Under water pressure relief valves

us1,
The pressure adjustment range on that valve is 50-175 psi. I also looked at this valve but I thought the range of adjustabilty did not fit my application since I am producing about 35psi block pressure. Does this valve come in a lower range?

Paul

You guys need to control FLOW not pressure, thats why none of the "preesuse relief" systems seem to work...especially with a crossover. Remember water is not compressable, therefore flow control is the only way to reduce block pressure. Think about it, when you take out the thermostat it allows water to flow more freely (less flow restriction), thus lower block pressures. Only problem is its tough to get any heat in the motor. Its no different than drilling out the manifolds or headers to allow more flow...which lowers block pressures by letting more volume out. Let us know how the watts pressure valve works.

why not take a razor knife and cut a couple of impellor vanes off and reinstall ?

Not sure if I totally agree. By controlling pressure, you are in a sence controling flow, and vice versa.

I tried the flow routes. Didn't work.
Tried a 3/8" bypass hose. Idle temps great and consistant. To much FLOW restriction (not enough flow) at high rpms= high pressure.
Tried larger 1/2 "bypass line. Idle temps would climb to over 200 in a few minutes, but with good wot pressure. I have a feeling that too much water is bypassing the motor at idle here.

By using a pressure relief system, it will force all water thru the motor at idle to keep from overheating, yet dump the excess water at WOT. question is , is the 1/2" lager enough for WOT? Haven't been able to try it out yet, got other problems right now.

By using the system you and wettevette have, it seems like that at idle you would have to close the flow valve to keep from starvng the motor, but then have to open it for the speed runs. But then you say yours works, maybe there is something I'm overlooking?
Jerry