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-   -   Strainer Lid's (https://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/general-q/255185-strainer-lids.html)

Jeff P31 06-05-2011 06:36 PM

Strainer Lid's
 
Any body else have trouble with the lexan lid's cracking ? Went to start the boat for the first time this year and both lid's were cracked .

REDS32 06-05-2011 08:44 PM

Yep they break easy.

BenPerfected 06-05-2011 08:54 PM

Did water freeze in the strainers?

Jeff P31 06-05-2011 09:02 PM


Originally Posted by BenPerfected (Post 3421045)
Did water freeze in the strainers?

No water just antifreeze

Strip Poker 388 06-05-2011 09:58 PM

My Hardin Marine cracked real easy,even have buddys that had a prob with the higher pressure breaking them,Not just cracking them!!! at 140.00 for a new one,They didnt even send any anal lube with it:mad:

Jeff P31 06-06-2011 05:30 PM

Yes they were hardin's and only 2 years old with maybe 50 hours on them . Just wondering where I get my kiss !!!!!!!! Another fine product .

INDY27 06-06-2011 09:16 PM

I bought one today from CP Performance, $80 plus shipping

Jeff P31 06-13-2011 05:30 PM


Originally Posted by INDY27 (Post 3422199)
I bought one today from CP Performance, $80 plus shipping

:bsflag: Try $189 plus the ride , what a deal !!!!!!!!

INDY27 06-13-2011 05:36 PM


Originally Posted by Jeff P31 (Post 3428288)
:bsflag: Try $189 plus the ride , what a deal !!!!!!!!

So your saying you paid $189 for 1 clear lid, no hardware???

Jeff P31 06-13-2011 05:41 PM

Yep $189 each no hardware X 2 . No lube either straight in dry !!!!!!!!!! Just so you know mine came from hardin but I did just call CP and that is the price.

INDY27 06-13-2011 06:10 PM

Ouch! I placed my order through Hardin Marine http://www.hardin-marine.com/ with Scott for $80.

REDS32 06-13-2011 07:57 PM

It happens

Strip Poker 388 06-13-2011 10:55 PM

I see the old Gill style sea strainers are claimed to be "tested to over 100 PSI" and the Harding marine are not rated :grinser010:

http://www.hardin-marine.com/c-1101-sea-strainers.aspx

INDY27 06-14-2011 05:15 AM

The one I got has Gil imprinted just like the original, I thought $80 was too much but $189?!?! WTF? :party-smiley-004:

SkiDoc 06-14-2011 05:55 AM

I removed the lid from one of my teagues last fall. It was very crusty around the lid. Edges were breaking off. Called Teague and a new one with seal was like 20 or 30 bucks. They are good people to deal with. I replaced the other one. Looks like the Lexan is not very inert and will break down with time. Maybe something that needs to be put on the maintainence list.

mr3dman 06-14-2011 08:01 AM

Sounds like some money to be made here. I wiuld think someone can lathe an aluminum cover with a tempered glass insert and sell for 189 all day long. now who can turn and burn?

Wally 06-14-2011 09:34 AM

1 Attachment(s)
I have the measurements on CAD of the old Gill lids. I have made a few in Polycarbonate for a few people in the past. I'm sure i can make others if someone wanted to send me their old one to use for measurements :)

INDY27 06-14-2011 09:49 AM

Wally, I have one I can send you but it is the one I have uses a bolt straight down the center with a clamp around the edge.

Wally 06-14-2011 10:06 AM

shoot me a pic of it

bigblockwally @ hotmail.com

INDY27 06-14-2011 10:22 AM

1 Attachment(s)

Originally Posted by Wally (Post 3428868)
shoot me a pic of it

bigblockwally @ hotmail.com

Here is what it looks like, I can sent you an actual pic of the lid itself this weekend when I go to the lake.

INDY27 06-14-2011 10:36 AM

4 Attachment(s)

Originally Posted by Wally (Post 3428868)
shoot me a pic of it

bigblockwally @ hotmail.com

Here are a few from when I gave my bilge a makeover.

Wally 06-14-2011 12:00 PM

Doesnt look like anything complicated...if you want to send me a bad one i can make one or two for ya no prob. :)

Strip Poker 388 06-14-2011 05:13 PM

1 Attachment(s)
The old style gill is like molded/casted.I remember paying around $40.00 from Gill a few years back.I still have the old ones.they really didnt crack just got cloudy/dirty looking.

Strip Poker 388 06-14-2011 05:21 PM

5 Attachment(s)
The Hardin/CP Perf one is machined.

What I ran into was overall thickness was more than most shops had in stock

INDY27 06-14-2011 05:32 PM


Originally Posted by Strip Poker 388 (Post 3429203)
The Hardin/CP Perf one is machined.

What I ran into was overall thickness was more than most shops had in stock

Rob, is that one you had made or one from Hardin?

Strip Poker 388 06-14-2011 06:26 PM


Originally Posted by INDY27 (Post 3429207)
Rob, is that one you had made or one from Hardin?

Thats the Harding old one.I figure if it could be made thicker hold up better,and prob wouldnt look much diff

INDY27 06-15-2011 09:34 AM

5 Attachment(s)
Here is my old Gil, the new one from Hardin is identical.

Hardin Marine 06-15-2011 10:00 AM


Originally Posted by Strip Poker 388 (Post 3429203)
The Hardin/CP Perf one is machined.

What I ran into was overall thickness was more than most shops had in stock

Not sure what speeds the boats running or if it has pressure reliefs but if the boat runs faster than 80mph it really should use the billet style top cap that acts in the same fashion as a girdle would and it transfers the support from just the center stud all the way across the entire lid. When we see a lid like yours in the picture start to crack from the center post outward the traditionally is cause by excess pressure or water spikes. Just food for thought.

Hardin Marine 06-15-2011 10:03 AM


Originally Posted by Strip Poker 388 (Post 3429237)
Thats the Harding old one.I figure if it could be made thicker hold up better,and prob wouldnt look much diff

You could sure try that just make sure the lids heat treated like the original or rather than just crack or splinter it will shatter/break in two.

Keith Atlanta 06-15-2011 10:12 AM


Originally Posted by Hardin Marine (Post 3429702)
Not sure what speeds the boats running or if it has pressure reliefs but if the boat runs faster than 80mph it really should use the billet style top cap that acts in the same fashion as a girdle would and it transfers the support from just the center stud all the way across the entire lid. When we see a lid like yours in the picture start to crack from the center post outward the traditionally is cause by excess pressure or water spikes. Just food for thought.

I have the Hardin/Gil that is only 2 months old and broke one lid already. You dont even want to know what your NEW engine compartment looks like running in salt water when one of them springs a leak.

Keith Atlanta 06-15-2011 10:13 AM


Originally Posted by INDY27 (Post 3429676)
Here is my old Gil, the new one from Hardin is identical.

For what it is worth, make sure the delrin spacer is snug. I shimmed mine with 1 extra stainless washer so the lid doesnt flex as much when you tighten it. Seems to work so far.

INDY27 06-15-2011 11:59 AM


Originally Posted by Hardin Marine (Post 3429702)
Not sure what speeds the boats running or if it has pressure reliefs but if the boat runs faster than 80mph it really should use the billet style top cap that acts in the same fashion as a girdle would and it transfers the support from just the center stud all the way across the entire lid. When we see a lid like yours in the picture start to crack from the center post outward the traditionally is cause by excess pressure or water spikes. Just food for thought.


My Fountain runs 98+ with thru hull transom mount pickups feeding the strainers, how much would two 1-1/4 pressure relief valves cost me?

Jeff P31 06-15-2011 01:34 PM


Originally Posted by Hardin Marine (Post 3429702)
Not sure what speeds the boats running or if it has pressure reliefs but if the boat runs faster than 80mph it really should use the billet style top cap that acts in the same fashion as a girdle would and it transfers the support from just the center stud all the way across the entire lid. When we see a lid like yours in the picture start to crack from the center post outward the traditionally is cause by excess pressure or water spikes. Just food for thought.

Mine was sitting on the trailer when they broke !!!!!!!!!!!!!

SHAWN DAVIS 06-15-2011 01:48 PM

I'd replace the lid with an aluminum cover
take it off every so often and check it

Strip Poker 388 06-15-2011 09:46 PM


Originally Posted by Hardin Marine (Post 3429706)
You could sure try that just make sure the lids heat treated like the original or rather than just crack or splinter it will shatter/break in two.


shatter like glass:eek:

2112 06-15-2011 10:29 PM


Originally Posted by Hardin Marine (Post 3429702)
Not sure what speeds the boats running or if it has pressure reliefs.

This pressure relief will vent the air first which will keep your raw water side of the cooling system full and you oil coolers working much more effectively. I saw a 15-20 degree oil temp drop when I added mine (oil is controlled by thermostat).

Hardin Marine 06-16-2011 12:32 PM


Originally Posted by Keith Atlanta (Post 3429713)
I have the Hardin/Gil that is only 2 months old and broke one lid already. You dont even want to know what your NEW engine compartment looks like running in salt water when one of them springs a leak.

Well we never like to hear that contact us at 386-445-2500 so we can determine what happened and get you taken care of.

Sincerely

Hardin Marine 06-16-2011 12:37 PM

[QUOTE=Jeff P31;3429940]Mine was sitting on the trailer when they broke !!!!!!!!!!!!![/QUO


Are you saying your brand new lids cracked just sitting on the trailer?

Jeff P31 06-16-2011 09:34 PM

2 years old with less than 50 hours on them . Boat was in storage and NO they did not freeze . They were fine last year and was stored exactly the same way. I would say next time use some lube , but I can guarantee you there will be no next time !

thirdchildhood 06-16-2011 09:48 PM

This is a more efficient way of securing the lid:http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/x...s147Medium.jpg


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