Wideband O2 target WOT
#1
Thread Starter
Registered

Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,899
Likes: 20
From: Millstadt, IL
Hey, for those of you guys tuning with wideband O2. What are you shooting for as a target between say 5000-5400 RPM. Naturally aspirated, about 500HP with MPI. I have been using 12.5 as a target for upper RPM. Down a couple MPH on speed this year, is any one else running slower? Maybe this gas sucks more this year and others are seeing it too.
#2
Registered
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 4,480
Likes: 43
From: Tennessee
Need a little more info on the engine. What is the compression? What cam? Those 2 items will have a huge effect on cylinder pressures, which will play a large role in how lean you can go. Are you running the engine cold or does it have a thermostat? This will also effect it.
As a VERY general rule of thumb, 12.5 on an NA engine at WOT is about what you want to shoot for. The more aggressive the engine, the higher the cylinder pressures, the higher the water temp, the lower the octane, then the lower the AFR needs to be.
I have some of my larger engine (1300+ hp) on pump gas in the low 11's at WOT to keep them safe. You should look for low 13's at idle and part throttle cruise. This will keep the transom clean and the economy up.
If possible, monitor knock as well. You can have it tuned perfectly and still have it beat the bearings out of the bottom end. Give me a shout if I can help.
Eddie
As a VERY general rule of thumb, 12.5 on an NA engine at WOT is about what you want to shoot for. The more aggressive the engine, the higher the cylinder pressures, the higher the water temp, the lower the octane, then the lower the AFR needs to be.
I have some of my larger engine (1300+ hp) on pump gas in the low 11's at WOT to keep them safe. You should look for low 13's at idle and part throttle cruise. This will keep the transom clean and the economy up.
If possible, monitor knock as well. You can have it tuned perfectly and still have it beat the bearings out of the bottom end. Give me a shout if I can help.
Eddie
#4
Registered
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 4,480
Likes: 43
From: Tennessee
The vast majority of what I build are efi engines using a Mefi ecm, which has it's own knock protection. There isn't much out there for a stand alone. On carb stuff, I just use one from MSD. It's not something you want to absolutely rely on. It's about a half a step above nothing at all.
There is one out there by J and S(???) I think that's the name. Quite a few guys have talked about it here before. I've never used it so I really can't comment on it. Maybe someone else will chime in with some info and the correct name.
Eddie
There is one out there by J and S(???) I think that's the name. Quite a few guys have talked about it here before. I've never used it so I really can't comment on it. Maybe someone else will chime in with some info and the correct name.
Eddie
#5
Thread Starter
Registered

Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,899
Likes: 20
From: Millstadt, IL
Need a little more info on the engine. What is the compression? What cam? Those 2 items will have a huge effect on cylinder pressures, which will play a large role in how lean you can go. Are you running the engine cold or does it have a thermostat? This will also effect it.
As a VERY general rule of thumb, 12.5 on an NA engine at WOT is about what you want to shoot for. The more aggressive the engine, the higher the cylinder pressures, the higher the water temp, the lower the octane, then the lower the AFR needs to be.
I have some of my larger engine (1300+ hp) on pump gas in the low 11's at WOT to keep them safe. You should look for low 13's at idle and part throttle cruise. This will keep the transom clean and the economy up.
If possible, monitor knock as well. You can have it tuned perfectly and still have it beat the bearings out of the bottom end. Give me a shout if I can help.
Eddie
As a VERY general rule of thumb, 12.5 on an NA engine at WOT is about what you want to shoot for. The more aggressive the engine, the higher the cylinder pressures, the higher the water temp, the lower the octane, then the lower the AFR needs to be.
I have some of my larger engine (1300+ hp) on pump gas in the low 11's at WOT to keep them safe. You should look for low 13's at idle and part throttle cruise. This will keep the transom clean and the economy up.
If possible, monitor knock as well. You can have it tuned perfectly and still have it beat the bearings out of the bottom end. Give me a shout if I can help.
Eddie
Last edited by jeffswav; 07-06-2011 at 09:15 PM.
#6
Registered

Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 2,696
Likes: 93
From: Pa
#7
Registered
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 4,480
Likes: 43
From: Tennessee
That's the one. Thanks GPM.
Jeff,
Sounds like you pretty much have it nailed. When is the last time it ran 73-74 mph? Was it this year or last? Check the usual items....prop for dings, bottom for a slight hook, etc. Obviously something has changed. It's just a matter of figuring it out. Let me know if I can help.
Eddie
Jeff,
Sounds like you pretty much have it nailed. When is the last time it ran 73-74 mph? Was it this year or last? Check the usual items....prop for dings, bottom for a slight hook, etc. Obviously something has changed. It's just a matter of figuring it out. Let me know if I can help.
Eddie
#8
Thread Starter
Registered

Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,899
Likes: 20
From: Millstadt, IL
That's the one. Thanks GPM.
Jeff,
Sounds like you pretty much have it nailed. When is the last time it ran 73-74 mph? Was it this year or last? Check the usual items....prop for dings, bottom for a slight hook, etc. Obviously something has changed. It's just a matter of figuring it out. Let me know if I can help.
Eddie
Jeff,
Sounds like you pretty much have it nailed. When is the last time it ran 73-74 mph? Was it this year or last? Check the usual items....prop for dings, bottom for a slight hook, etc. Obviously something has changed. It's just a matter of figuring it out. Let me know if I can help.
Eddie
#10
Thread Starter
Registered

Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,899
Likes: 20
From: Millstadt, IL
Maybe, I have rebuilt in stages, the rings have about 200hrs, heads only have 100hrs on last valve job. If tune up parts don't get the speed back I will take a closer look in the winter.


