Just a quick mention... If you're going to go to +.100 have it sonic tested first. Some castings are a little thicker than others.

I was trying to say, as WJD21 said, that the hyd stuff is very reliable. However, depending on your cams, you could possibly run a hyd. roller lifter on your solid cams. It depends on how aggressive they are, how much lift, how steep the ramp, etc. but it can be done.
Eddie

That is what I was trying to get at. This winter I was looking over some new hydraulic roller lifters (new Morels I think) and it seemed that the dampening travel was not what I have seen in the past or on other lifters. It seemed that it was only 0.060"-0.070" (don't quote me on these #'s) These also did not go into valve float at higher rpm's on the dyno like others I have seen. It seemed that these took up about as much lash when adjusted as my solids. This got me thinking about putting hydraulics on solid cams. Something that I did not want to be the guinea pig and try though.

How would I know if mine are to aggressive? 252/264 (290/300) .630"/.630" lift
I assume they are a little to hot.
As always, thanks for you input and time.

we run up to .125 over in some drag race engines, but fill the block in most of those...I would say .060 is about the limit in most cases on a gen VI 454, I do have 1 std bore 4 bolt main marine block that is std now for sale..Rob

Rookie,
Your .050 numbers aren't that big, so it doesn't sound out of the question. Do you happen to have or can get the .200 numbers. This will give me a really good idea of ramp profile. You can have 2 cams with the same .050 duration but with vastly different .200 duration numbers. The higher the .200 number, the more aggressive the ramp. This will tell how quickly the lifter will come up the ramp and give a good idea if it will loft the lifter.
The high rpm Morels can take up to about 200-210 on the seat and 550-575 pounds over the nose, so odds are they will work just fine with your cam.
Try to find the .200 numbers for your cam and we'll go from there.
Eddie

This is all I have found. It is an Ultradyne R32/33. Does this make any sense? My R32 #is 252 not 254 though.
Thanks,
Jason

Here is the plan so far. We cleaned the blocks and are due for a mugnflux to start. Assuming they are good we will take em to .100, as it is already at .06 and needs some clean up. Machinest will bore the holes to maximise the cylinder thickness to the outsides. Line bore, sonic test to verify thickness. He suggested diamond pistons, I am unsure but he says they perform well for him, and they are much faster on odd sizes. We are giving the 099 heads a full port and polish, Gold comp 1.7's, Isky springs and keepers, SS intake, Incnl ex., 3 angle valve seat, Fire (something) rings, h beam rods bored for bushings and floating pins, Cross drill the cranks, milidon pans with windage trays, and custom grind cams, hyd. roller lifters. HE ignition, balance and blueprint, and Top that off with some blowers YTBD.
Hope we can get it sorted this year yet!

Sounds good. What cranks are you going to use? The ole wallet's gonna be a little lighter after this project. Good luck with it.

I have never liked the idea of crossdrilling cranks... especially since you can get full groove main bearings that accomplish the same thing. I still prefer the 3/4 groove main bearings my self though.

I have a pair of 10/10 steel forged cranks. My guy says the bottom end parts are good to 700 hp, and they will spin between 6200 and 6500 rpm's when he is done. Of all I bought these were perfect condition. Wallet will be a bit lighter, but after looking at so many used motors, I felt it better to cough it up and know what I have. I paid 2500.00 for 2 of everything, blocks cranks heads, intakes, roller rockers rod sets, and more tin than you can shake a stick at. Just have to build them. My builder says he can keep me in the 8k range, we will see. Dyno time is extra.