Best prop for top speed
#11
Yes BBlades is on my list. Also I thought that I had 28 props on my drive. It turns out they are 24. Must have been having one of those days when I checked em out. 
I noticed on the rear prop, on the outer rim has a flat spot and is not totally round. I would guess this is whats causing my vibration when my boat has a load of people full cooler and tank of gass.

I noticed on the rear prop, on the outer rim has a flat spot and is not totally round. I would guess this is whats causing my vibration when my boat has a load of people full cooler and tank of gass.
#12
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Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Millstadt, IL
Thats not true, who told you that? I have run identical boats with the same power and different drives, the Bravo 1 is faster. Bravo 3's are for quick planing they are usually 2 or more MPH slower.
#13
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Joined: Aug 2011
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From: Louisville Ky
I have a 99 253.....
According to my Cobalt manual you should be using a 26P propset for
your Bravo 3 with a 454 Mag MPI. The 502 Mag MPI used the 28P
propsets. This is for the 252/253/25LS models. Which do you have?
Also you really need to get an accurate tachometer, digital is best,
before you do any more "testing" or make any changes. I went
through this myself and found significant speed increases with the
last 250 RPM's.
your Bravo 3 with a 454 Mag MPI. The 502 Mag MPI used the 28P
propsets. This is for the 252/253/25LS models. Which do you have?
Also you really need to get an accurate tachometer, digital is best,
before you do any more "testing" or make any changes. I went
through this myself and found significant speed increases with the
last 250 RPM's.
#14
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Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 27
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From: Louisville Ky
#16
That explains the 24's as opposed to the 26's.
As mentioned above, first check your boat's tach against a shop tach or scan tool at WOT to verify its accuracy. If accurate, time to send those 24's off to be fixed/worked to be able to pull 5K at WOT.
As mentioned above, first check your boat's tach against a shop tach or scan tool at WOT to verify its accuracy. If accurate, time to send those 24's off to be fixed/worked to be able to pull 5K at WOT.
#18
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Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 2,640
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Just get the ding fixed, have them balanced, and enjoy the boat. Remember, cruising between 3000 - 4000 RPM is where you will spend most of your time. I would prop for max speed within that range. The rev limiter will kick in at 5100 RPM, and I don't think an extra 200 RPM will give you more than a MPH or two. Not worth the trouble and additional wear and tear on the engine.
If you try to hang with the guys on this forum, be ready to spend a lot of money and a lot of time standing on your head in the bilge!
If you try to hang with the guys on this forum, be ready to spend a lot of money and a lot of time standing on your head in the bilge!
#19
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Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 27
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From: Louisville Ky
Yea I know all about the faster boats. Several of my friends have and had Pro Chargers. Dont want any of that expense or time hanging out in the bildge.

Just get the ding fixed, have them balanced, and enjoy the boat. Remember, cruising between 3000 - 4000 RPM is where you will spend most of your time. I would prop for max speed within that range. The rev limiter will kick in at 5100 RPM, and I don't think an extra 200 RPM will give you more than a MPH or two. Not worth the trouble and additional wear and tear on the engine.
If you try to hang with the guys on this forum, be ready to spend a lot of money and a lot of time standing on your head in the bilge!
If you try to hang with the guys on this forum, be ready to spend a lot of money and a lot of time standing on your head in the bilge!





