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Check your remote oil lines before pulling the motor. It makes a difference in how you attach the adapter that bolts on to the bottom of the motor. You can have it 180 degrees out from what is expected in the way of flow at the remote adapter.
As a test, take the filter off again and try priming it. If you get oil flowing to the center of the remote adapter, then you are backward. Its supposed to come from the motor via the side port in the adapter, not the center port. If its coming to the filter via the center hole, then the check valve in the oil filter will stop the flow. Good luck! Bob |
Originally Posted by BUP
(Post 3504986)
Just put one in last night right out of their Melling box. Makes for 29 of them this year alone. The box and the oil pump that was shipped to me were dry as hell. Also be nice my wife knows your wife DUDE.
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Originally Posted by anewway
(Post 3505001)
Check your remote oil lines before pulling the motor. It makes a difference in how you attach the adapter that bolts on to the bottom of the motor. You can have it 180 degrees out from what is expected in the way of flow at the remote adapter.
As a test, take the filter off again and try priming it. If you get oil flowing to the center of the remote adapter, then you are backward. Its supposed to come from the motor via the side port in the adapter, not the center port. If its coming to the filter via the center hole, then the check valve in the oil filter will stop the flow. Good luck! Bob http://teaguecustommarine.com/index.php/tech Click on the oil plumbing system. |
Originally Posted by BUP
(Post 3504972)
So your going to say its better to leave an oil pump completely dry before putting into use and lube the rest of the internals while building.
My point was, and still is, that the original poster's oil pressure issue is not being caused by his lack of putting any type of lubricant in the pump upon installation. Remember, we're trying to help him with his issue here, so it's important to keep the misleading info to a minimum. |
Originally Posted by pslonaker
(Post 3504884)
Raylar...you as a professional motor builder should offer help instead of berating him for trying to fix his issue. Respectability has gone down here.
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Originally Posted by picklenjim
(Post 3504644)
There's lifter galley plugs in the front which would be behind the timing cover. They would leak internally. There are also plugs on the back of the block. They would be leaking externally.
Is the drill laboring when you spin the pump? You should deffinately be able to tell there's a heavy load on it. If I'm not mistaken you should be able to prime the pump with it installed. The pump picks up the oil and goes directly to the filter first. There fore you should be able to disconnect the oil incoming line at the remote filter. Then pour oil in the line. It should run in there backwards and fill the pump. You could even spin the pump in reverse and see if it sucks it in. BillK- One time I had a 1/2" drill smokin and the lights dimming spinnin a HV pump in a BB. |
Just tossing this into the mix (and I'm far from an expert) but... I've reprimed a dry pump using a homemade pre-oiler that I pressured with a compressor. It worked like a charm. That may help with the priming if spinning it isn't doing the trick. I realize there are probably larger problems as others have pointed out, but forcing oil through the system with a pre-oiler might also help. Cheap and easy to build too.
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I'll always be happy to try to help anybody who asks.
For every guy who tries to do it themselves and messes it up, there are just as many so-called "marine engine builders" out there taking people's money and doing hack-jobs that blow up as well. Forums such as this help people find reputable builders (like Raylar and many others) and also to find out which ones NOT to use. Sometimes it takes a hard lesson learned, but eventually most guys either run out of money, find a good mechanic/builder, learn to do it themselves, or get out of boating. That's part of the charm of owning a boat.. Take a guy new to boating who needs motor work. How does he know whether Joe-Bob's race motors will do a great job or whether he will build a bomb with a short fuse? Since there were more than two pieces in an assembly, there have been people putting them together wrong, and it will always be that way. We can sit on the sidelines and hammer them for not choosing "builder x" or we can try to hear their descriptions and try to help. MC |
I think Raylar should help a fellow boater out and send him a free motor, so the guy can stay in the boating hobby. Help a brother out.
This is a technical forum right, not the advertising pages. |
We might also want to stop the whinning about the friggin oil pump...prime it...dont prime it...did it come in the box with oil in it or did it show up dry. Raylar and other "pro" builders arent going to say much because there isnt any $$$ in it for them and they have hugh overheads to deal with. The smaller guys need help...ask for it and in alot of cases, they catch Hell because they didnt do this or that or take it to motor builder A or motor builder B. Someone who is willing to take on a project by themselves...I will always go out of my way to help the person. Everybody has to or had to learn how to mess with a motor regardless of how many times they screwed it up. If they are willing to keep at it, then I am willing to offer any and all the help I can. I only know of a few builders that "think" they could work on top fuel boats when they were 10 years old...some of them hang out on OSO. I have seen others offer poor advice knowing that if they do certain things on a old 7.4 motor, it is going to die.
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