Water in the OIL!
09-28-2011, 06:32 PM
#11
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Ouch,
Sounds like you have had your share of issues
I still dont think the water and oil on the valve stems has anything to do with it though. Like I said in the previous post, it is probably just running down the stem from up top. That stuff will get everywhere.
The dropped valve seat is something VERY hard to predict. Short of replacing all of them on every rebuild, there is not much you can do except to make sure and magnaflux the heads very carefully. I have found several cracked seats in Mercruiser heads in the past. Any seat that even looks suspicious gets replaced, but never all of them just for grins.
Not sure what to say about the main bearings. My experience has been that if a Chevy bottom end is going to have a problem, it does it right away, not after ten hours of running.
Back to your water problem, I dont know what going to a different machine shop will do ? You are doing the same exact tests that any of us would do, only difference is I usually use 40 lbs of pressure, but thats kind of hard to do on an assembled engine. I will say that if it was an engine I built, I would be doing anything I could to help you figure out the problem.
Any way you could bolt a set of headers on it and run it like that for a while ? Maybe pump the seawater overboard instead of into the exhaust just for testing purposes ? Other possibility would be to put it on a dyno and run it and see if the water is still there without the wet exhaust.
Wish I could think of something else
Where are you located anyway ?
Bill Koustenis
Advanced Automotive Machine
Waldorf Md
Sounds like you have had your share of issues
I still dont think the water and oil on the valve stems has anything to do with it though. Like I said in the previous post, it is probably just running down the stem from up top. That stuff will get everywhere. The dropped valve seat is something VERY hard to predict. Short of replacing all of them on every rebuild, there is not much you can do except to make sure and magnaflux the heads very carefully. I have found several cracked seats in Mercruiser heads in the past. Any seat that even looks suspicious gets replaced, but never all of them just for grins.
Not sure what to say about the main bearings. My experience has been that if a Chevy bottom end is going to have a problem, it does it right away, not after ten hours of running.
Back to your water problem, I dont know what going to a different machine shop will do ? You are doing the same exact tests that any of us would do, only difference is I usually use 40 lbs of pressure, but thats kind of hard to do on an assembled engine. I will say that if it was an engine I built, I would be doing anything I could to help you figure out the problem.
Any way you could bolt a set of headers on it and run it like that for a while ? Maybe pump the seawater overboard instead of into the exhaust just for testing purposes ? Other possibility would be to put it on a dyno and run it and see if the water is still there without the wet exhaust.
Wish I could think of something else
Where are you located anyway ?
Bill Koustenis
Advanced Automotive Machine
Waldorf Md
Last edited by BillK; 09-28-2011 at 06:34 PM.
09-29-2011, 09:52 PM
#12
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I'm in NE Florida. I got a second hand set of headers that a hacked up tonight to fit on the motor while in the cradle. I flipped the motor over and really looked the exhaust ports over good. Used a pick and hammer to test and no soft spots were found. Pulled the pan and cleaned out all the milkshake. Break cleanered everything a little air to dry and replaced pan. Tomorrow plan on running with the hached headers to see what happens.
One thing I did notice when I pulled the pan was rust drops under the #1 cylinder in the pan. Looking at the bore you can see a rust ring near the bottom all the way around the cylinder. I'd say it is collecting there from the oil ring at the bottom of the stroke. The #1 exhuast port is rusty and water is on the vavle stem.
One thing I did notice when I pulled the pan was rust drops under the #1 cylinder in the pan. Looking at the bore you can see a rust ring near the bottom all the way around the cylinder. I'd say it is collecting there from the oil ring at the bottom of the stroke. The #1 exhuast port is rusty and water is on the vavle stem.
10-02-2011, 08:33 PM
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Well ran it the first stage of a 3 stage break in. 20 min. at about 1500 rpm. Nothing but motor. No oil cooler or marine exhaust. After about 15 mins. the oil started to show signs of water. Not as bad as before. I plumbed the cooling water into a bucket so I could see if oil showed up there and it did. So oil in the water and water in the oil. Also saw wet exhaust ports. On top of all this, oil pressure started at about 50 psi and during the 20 min. run dropped to 19. So, what are the thoughts? I plan on pulling the pan and looking at the mains to see how they look. From that Im at a loss.
10-02-2011, 08:50 PM
#14
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ck,
I guess the only thing to do is tear it down again and look at everything real carefully If there is oil getting into the water it almost has to be a cracked block. That is the only place there is pressurized oil anywhere near a water jacket. Problem is it is almost impossible to completely seal off the oiling system to pressurize it to check for cracks.
Not sure what type of magnaflux machine your machine shop has but at this point I would say you need to find someone with a wet type magnaflux, which not all that many shops have. Anyone who grinds crankshafts should have one but finding one big enough to do a block is the trick.
I would be looking at the one cylinder with the rust ring real closely.
Bill Koustenis
Advanced Automotive Machine
Waldorf Md
I guess the only thing to do is tear it down again and look at everything real carefully
If there is oil getting into the water it almost has to be a cracked block. That is the only place there is pressurized oil anywhere near a water jacket. Problem is it is almost impossible to completely seal off the oiling system to pressurize it to check for cracks. Not sure what type of magnaflux machine your machine shop has but at this point I would say you need to find someone with a wet type magnaflux, which not all that many shops have. Anyone who grinds crankshafts should have one but finding one big enough to do a block is the trick.
I would be looking at the one cylinder with the rust ring real closely.
Bill Koustenis
Advanced Automotive Machine
Waldorf Md
10-06-2011, 05:14 AM
#15
crack
SOunds like a block crack in the water jacket next to the cly. Had that issue in a 460 in a jet years ago.. Block is great paper weight..
Hate to say it but tear her down and have the block checked.. There are companies that weld and will guarantee the repair.
Hate to say it but tear her down and have the block checked.. There are companies that weld and will guarantee the repair.
