Prater

Thanks guys, I was sure the carb plates were a bad idea. I am trying to pull the motors with the exhaust manifolds and front accesories still attached to the block. I have an engine leveler that I plan to use. I think I will go with Eddies advice on the cable. I already have one or two in the garage, just did not think about using them...

4bus

iTrader: (4)

I dropped a 500HP with a 177 blower lifting it into my 36 OL. I had to remove the stock lifting hooks after the blowers so I bolted the ends of the load leveler chains to the heads. The bolt in the back of the head was a little long, and bottomed out before the chain was tight. I went with it.

The rollers that glide along the beam for the hoist were stuck from all the dirt and debri that collected on the beam. When the engine was raised up to about 8 feet to clear the boat the hoist did not want to slide. I gave it a tug, standing on the boat, it swung over the bilge, swung back and the bolt snapped. The engine fell, hit the side of the boat near the transom, bounced off that and landed on the other engine! Was about the scariest thing I have ever seen.

Spider cracks on the boat. Tons of new parts were needed for both engines. But the worst part was the hidden damage, the exhaust had a small dent that I missed which eventually caused an internal water leak. Later while boating that leak sprung, flooding my supercharged engine with water and destroying it before I read anything abnormal on the gauges.

All in all, not using the proper lifting hooks cost me over $20k, and half my summer.

Young Performance

Here is what it looks like. You can either run the strap under the headers and bring all of the eyes together, or you can install longer bolts in the end exhaust holes and put the eyes over the bolts. Here are a few pics. These straps are 1" wide and are rated to 3200 lbs each. I ordered them from ENCO for about $12 each.
Eddie

Chico&Zeus

Be careful using long bolts & if you do, get some Grade 5 or Grade 8 bolts that will have less chance of bending if the straps are too far away from the block. The shear strength of the bolts is 10 times what the motor weighs but a weaker bolt will bend and fail.

MILD THUNDER

iTrader: (3)

I just lifted my engines fully dressed last weekend. They have blowers and stellings headers. We have one of those leveling attachments, that my buddy welded some arms on. Basically, 4 chains come off of it, one to each corner of the head. Clears the blowers fine, and still can angle the engines. I only use grade 8 bolts for lifting. But by lifting at 4 corners, you spreading the load out. 2 bolts for lifting scares me.

I agree with the other guys, dont use a carb plate!! I would imagine a fully dressed big block, with trannies attached, has to be close to 1000 lbs....

Eddie Young's setup is really sweet, like the straps alot.

ICDEDPPL

iTrader: (1)

I just bear hug the motor and lift it right out.. man you guys are weak!

Or you could always go RICER STYLE:




lol

MILD THUNDER

iTrader: (3)

Dan, aren't those your teepee poles for when you go camping? Great way to put them to use!

ICDEDPPL

iTrader: (1)

Dammit Joe why you bust me out EVERYTIME!!!

I was just trying to put a bigger motor in my tow vehicle GEEZ!

tcelano

I don't like the idea of lifting by bolts in aluminum heads. I do similar to Eddie, except I pass a huge tow strap all the way under the oil pan fore and aft. 25' worked perfect to clear my induction. I removed the #2 spark plug, otherwise everything else looked good. Each leg of the strap really has only about 300 lb tension, so it doesn't hurt the pan or anything with a nice big strap.

Just the thought of dropping one of these things makes me want to puke.

Sport 280

I have been looking for a good a frame hoist that can be taken apart and stored. Where did you find the one in the picture? Or did you make it. That is a real good looking set up.

Thanks