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Winterize issue..

Old 11-07-2011, 08:42 AM
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If you killed the impeller, be sure to take off the hose that runs from the sea pump to the oil cooler on the rear. You need to be sure you find ALL of the impeller pieces and get them out. Look in the oil cooler. The bigger pieces will stop there since the holes through the cooler are only about 1/4". Any pieces that made it through the cooler should make it through the entire cooling system.
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Old 11-07-2011, 10:24 AM
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Originally Posted by nsformula
sure
If you drain the block, risers and all.you will still have a small amount of water trapped that is below the drain cocks level that is subject to freezing. This can split the block under the right circumstances.

Definitely clear out the drain cock's as they are flowing water - have seen a number of drains that appeared to be empty but were blocked by a bit of debris or silt.....

I would at least pour some antifreeze throught the thermostat housing until antifreeze come out the engines drain cocks and follow suit with the other water cooled componets. Not perfect but its better protection than just draining the water out IMO
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Old 11-07-2011, 10:29 AM
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Alot of great advice here. If this happened to me I would replace the impeller and flush out the system then run the antifreeze thru.

I pull all the drains on the block, exhaust, and all the hoses to get out as much water as possible. I pull the t-stat out and fill block with antifreeze along with all the hoses. I have a 5 gallon bucket with a spigot in the side and a hose to muffs. I run 8 gallons (total) of antifreeze thru the whole system. Puking pink out of the exhausts for at least a couple of minutes. Overkill I know but I sleep well during the winter when I do it this way. Good luck!
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Old 11-07-2011, 10:33 AM
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Originally Posted by speicher lane
I would at least pour some antifreeze throught the thermostat housing until antifreeze come out the engines drain cocks and follow suit with the other water cooled componets. Not perfect but its better protection than just draining the water out IMO
Good call!


Did this to a boat this season (customers request). At least do this!
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Old 11-07-2011, 11:04 AM
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Originally Posted by speicher lane
If you drain the block, risers and all.you will still have a small amount of water trapped that is below the drain cocks level that is subject to freezing. This can split the block under the right circumstances.
Never seen this happen in over 20 years of winterizing boats. And when you work for a place that winterizes over 300 boats a year, one would think we'd be worried about it - if it were a real concern. I wouldn't worry.
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Old 11-07-2011, 12:03 PM
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As I said IMO - I look at it as $10 of Antifreeze vs. could have, should have or would have when compared to several k (what 10k +/- for a good re-freshed replacement long block for a 502 EFI )

To each their own by all means, when the temps hit -20 and there is 5' of snow - antifreeze is a cheap sleep
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Old 11-07-2011, 04:16 PM
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Thank for all the great info.
My first post was on Sunday and I couldn't get an impeller.
I can this week but time is very precious.
If I don't have time to change it out I will drain the system.
Friday is the only day I may have time.

If I try and run a/f thru I will pull the hose from the oil cooler end as well and make sure there is no crap in there.

Not sure why the impeller took a crap, they do.
I was trying to run it on the water hose thru the earmuffs to get it up to temp and open the t/stat, but it wouldn't even draw water from the ear muffs.

Thanx again
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Old 11-07-2011, 05:52 PM
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Impellers just go, especially at the most inopportune times!
You should have time to swap out that impeller its only going to 45 degrees in Halifax this week.(yea I checked and converted it to Farenhiet )
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Old 11-08-2011, 07:01 PM
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Don't leave it just "empty"....you need to find a way to circulate antifreeze through the motor. You can drain it, pull the thermostat housing and pour anti in, or you can fix what needs fixin', buy the tank and muffs and do it that way. No matter how you do it, do it. It's relatively cheap insurance versus a cracked block/head because you left a little water in the wrong place.
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Old 11-08-2011, 08:47 PM
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i use a bilage pump..has not failed me in over 20 yrs
i also turn up the idle to 1200 rpms.while its running at the end of the i will for the engine..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LzDob8um5Xc
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