megasquirt is another if you can put it together can do a ton of things at not a stupid cost..

Who do you call for tech help if you don't put it together right ?

I have been told there are " electronic guys"/3rd partys who will asssemble these the way you want them for a small fee. To me it sounds TOO complicated and requires the end user to be almost a expert at electronics, nothing I'm THAT interested in, Smitty

Is this system available for a BB setup yet?

Yes

Here's some pics.. The HP is a little bigger then a MEFI, it fit's really well on the stainless MSD mount from CPperf, or inside an electronics box on the back of engines with transmissions. The Dominator is a little bigger again with more features. The burgundy engines are gen VI 502's in a 1970 Fino, one's counter rotating and they're using the complete Holley efi kits, intakes, billet throttle body's, injectors, fuel pumps, etc. It was an easy way to bring modern, efficient, and reliable engines to a classic hull. (The wiring and stuff's kinda messy 'cause we were still finishing the install when that pic was taken). The Dominator hiding in the fender of the 56 chev is controlling all engine functions, sequential EFI, dual knock, dual wideband, 4l60e trans, Paddle shift, fans, trans cooler, AC-kick, and there's still a ton of leftover inputs and outputs. Just to give you an idea of some of the stuff it can do..

Thanks for posting. This product sounds good. Holley is just down the street from me and I'm glad to hear they are producing significant products. Are there O2 sensors you can just leave in? When Eddie calibrated mine, I believe he lost at least one of the sensors. I've got dry headers but I think anywhere in a boat, your going to get some moisture.
Nice looking work!

You can pull the O2 sensors out once the tuning is done. On a couple of boats that regularly run anywhere from sea level to 4000' I left the O2's in for a couple months to really dial in the tune. It takes a significant drink of water to kill an O2 sensor. The two things that will kill them the fastest are rich fuel mixtures, and leaded fuel. The biggest concern with running closed loop for extended periods is as the O2 sensor decay's the tune up will change based on the false data coming from the sensor. Unless you check the calibration of your sensor periodically there's no way to tell it's going bad until you notice decreased performance or it starts running rough. I've run the same O2 for over a year in my own stuff without issue. I let it warm up for 30 seconds every time before I start and it's positioned in a way that water won't sit in the sensor.

On the Holley system, after the base tune's dialed in I turn the learn function down to 15-20% so it doesn't correct as quickly. This way it will really fine tune the fuel map. At 100% it will tune your fuel map faster then the best tuners on the planet. The first system I tried with the self learn on the dyno I was very cautious and loaded it at various rpm's and snuck up on it very slowly. After I saw how quickly it corrected, the next motor I did the first pull was 4000-6500rpm and I just let the ecm do it's thing.

Let's tell the Whole Story
 

Hey Guys! I love these new EFI tuning systems as a new important tool and method for re-tunes on EFI marine performance engines. I just think its important to also include the costs for the new complete engine harnesses needed to install one in place of an existing efi electronics system and the labor or effort needed to do a complete changeover.
As many of us marine engine "gearheads" know some of these harness requirements can get pretty involved and technical.

The possible issue here is that many of the EFI owner -OSO readers may think they just buy this Holley sytem and plug it onto the engine and go tuning.

I think it would be really beneficial to lay out the total costs, parts, system costs, harness, etc and the labor involved so our interested readers could really have a good time and full cost basis for this type of conversion.

Lets not get to simplistic on reviewing such an upgrade and lets give potential users real world estimates for the full cost of such a conversion OK?

Best Regards,
Ray @ Raylar

What are the indicators that a sensor may be going bad? I have been running the same one for 3 seasons. Seems to be working ok but lost a some speed this year. After making adjustments to the O2 target I gained most of it back by leaning out a little. I went from 12.5 to 12.8 at WOT. Going any leaner made no difference, going richer slowed it down. I have the Comander 950 setup, with wideband upgrade.