HYD. valva adjustment
#11
I use a stripped distributor- remove all the advance stuff, etc. and gear. No pickup needed, either.
1- Install the distributor and turn the shaft until oil oozes from all 16 pushrods onto the rockers.
2- Rotate the crank to #1 TDC. You can then adjust cyl #1.
3- Proceed through the firing order in sequence, rotating crank 90 degrees clockwise each time.
A way to check which cylinder is on the compression stroke is that the cylinder 180 degrees out should be near split overlap- The exhaust should be closing and the intake opening.
In other words, the cam lobes for a given cylinder form a V, and both lifters should be near the center of that V. With a firing order of 1843 6572, cylinder #1 is at TDC on the compression stroke when cylinder #6 is near split overlap.
1- Install the distributor and turn the shaft until oil oozes from all 16 pushrods onto the rockers.
2- Rotate the crank to #1 TDC. You can then adjust cyl #1.
3- Proceed through the firing order in sequence, rotating crank 90 degrees clockwise each time.
A way to check which cylinder is on the compression stroke is that the cylinder 180 degrees out should be near split overlap- The exhaust should be closing and the intake opening.
In other words, the cam lobes for a given cylinder form a V, and both lifters should be near the center of that V. With a firing order of 1843 6572, cylinder #1 is at TDC on the compression stroke when cylinder #6 is near split overlap.
#12
It is difficult to tell with the intake on the motor, exactly when the pushrod starts pushing the plunger off the sanp ring, the pressure is ever so slight at first. That is the point where you take it another 1/4, and I usually find that an 1/8 of a turn is usually closer. Slightly loose does not mess things up as much as too tight does. It sounds like you are feeling for more tension threshold before recognizing the pushrods are compressing the plunger. It really is slight at first, and that is where you go another 1/8 or 1/4. You can always fire it up w/o valve covers on and adjust with it running, tighten 1/8 turn after they quit clacking. Put some carbboard between the head and the exhasust to control oil splash, that always is fool proof. That is usually my last resort.
#13
Registered

Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 1,340
Likes: 28
From: Harwich, MA
Glassdave,
If you have roller rockers you should be able to turn the adjusting nuts with your fingers. You slowly turn down the adjusting nut until you just start to feel resistance, then add a 1/4 to 1/2 turn and lock the poly lock.
With a roller cam, I usally go 1/4 turn from zero lash and then add another 1/8 turn, turning the adjusting nut & poly lock together to ensure that they are tight.
If you have roller rockers you should be able to turn the adjusting nuts with your fingers. You slowly turn down the adjusting nut until you just start to feel resistance, then add a 1/4 to 1/2 turn and lock the poly lock.
With a roller cam, I usally go 1/4 turn from zero lash and then add another 1/8 turn, turning the adjusting nut & poly lock together to ensure that they are tight.
#15
PROBLEM SOLVED !!!an it wasnt my fault
this morning i pulled one of the lifters out and took out the retainer clip in the top of it and low-an-behold . . . it was a solid lifter. comp cams put the wrong lifters in my cam kit
. i called them and gave them the part numbers off the lifter and my cam kit an yup they messed up. than i had to go all the way back to square one and pull the cam and check the grind #, that was OK. but still what a pain in the A$$. this whole thing put me like 2 days behind. oh well at least i was able to spot the problem with some of your suggestions. you win the grand prize checkmate (course i dont know what the grand prize is), but you nailed it early on. heck i just assumed that because the box said hydraulic lifters, thats what they were
. thanks all
well tommorow i pick up the replacment lifters from the speed shop and i think it will go a bit smoother this time. got some good adjusting methods from this thread. still hope'n to splash it on saterday, thanks again.
this morning i pulled one of the lifters out and took out the retainer clip in the top of it and low-an-behold . . . it was a solid lifter. comp cams put the wrong lifters in my cam kit
. i called them and gave them the part numbers off the lifter and my cam kit an yup they messed up. than i had to go all the way back to square one and pull the cam and check the grind #, that was OK. but still what a pain in the A$$. this whole thing put me like 2 days behind. oh well at least i was able to spot the problem with some of your suggestions. you win the grand prize checkmate (course i dont know what the grand prize is), but you nailed it early on. heck i just assumed that because the box said hydraulic lifters, thats what they were
. thanks all
well tommorow i pick up the replacment lifters from the speed shop and i think it will go a bit smoother this time. got some good adjusting methods from this thread. still hope'n to splash it on saterday, thanks again.
#16
Official OSO boat whore
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 6,157
Likes: 0
From: Mequon, WI
It's been a really, really long time, but...
In the past, I've dropped the lifters into a can of oil, took a phillips screwdriver and worked the plunger until it firmed up.
In the past, I've dropped the lifters into a can of oil, took a phillips screwdriver and worked the plunger until it firmed up.
#17
And to add to the fire, I had one edelbrock lifter siezed in the last kit I bought. They replaced it which much concern. Thanks god it was one I could get to without having to pull the intake. If I didnt catch it, it would have done the engine in. Better to be sure.
#18
Glassdave;
When I install hydrolic lifters, I don't soak them. I pump them up with an oil squirt can ( the type with the goose neck ) Just push the goose neck up to the oil hole in the lifter and pump in enough oil to see it come up from the top of the lifter. Drop it in and adjust that valve right away. Then go on and do the rest. Try to avoid turning the motor over with the lifters in while attempting to adjust them, I feel that it will force some oil out of the lifters and make for inaccurate adjustments. This way will have fully pumped up lifters and can also tell you if the lifters are not solid lifters.
When I install hydrolic lifters, I don't soak them. I pump them up with an oil squirt can ( the type with the goose neck ) Just push the goose neck up to the oil hole in the lifter and pump in enough oil to see it come up from the top of the lifter. Drop it in and adjust that valve right away. Then go on and do the rest. Try to avoid turning the motor over with the lifters in while attempting to adjust them, I feel that it will force some oil out of the lifters and make for inaccurate adjustments. This way will have fully pumped up lifters and can also tell you if the lifters are not solid lifters.
#20
put the new lifters in today an everything went perfectly
easy adjustment
dixie- thats exactly how i did it. i just put some break in lube on the face and brushed the sides with regular engine oil, adjusted them than i pre-lubed the system just before i put the distributer in. gonna fire it up tommorow
hope to be in this weekend
thanks
easy adjustment dixie- thats exactly how i did it. i just put some break in lube on the face and brushed the sides with regular engine oil, adjusted them than i pre-lubed the system just before i put the distributer in. gonna fire it up tommorow
hope to be in this weekend
thanks


