I am seriously considering removing my box for this coming season to see how the boat performs without it.

I know I will need to get an engine coupler and new transom mounts for hydro steering.
Is there anything else I should be considering?
I am also a bit puzzled as to how I will align the drive with solid mount and L-angles in the front or the motor?
Will I need to do any transom work since the box has a bigger footprint than the transom assembley?
What about the trimm ram lines and shift cable?

Thanks.

There is no reason the hole in the transom should have been enlarged when the box was put on. Also, when I installed stellings boxes I used stock trim lines and shift cables. Other than your steering mounts and the drive coupler you may need a stock raw water fitting if the gimble has a stellings fitting installed.

Curious why you want to remove it?

You have to remove the engine to put a coupler on re-assemble and re-align. Why do you want to torture yourself with all that work.

...looks like you have the rams set up for the Stellings too. That is another bunch of money for different steering mounts.

Does it porpoise or do something evil?? I put one on my 272 Baja a few years ago, had 950 hp at the time and it slowed boat down and carried bow poorly in rough water, porpoised, sucked overalll, was alot of time and money to go slower. Now I will say in My case that My boat runs extremely high out of the water at high speeds ( above 85-90) and anything I have done ,box, shorty etc only hurt ride and performance.
As far as your questions, you will probably need shorter rams, I used my same rams mounted to imco ears on box but I see yours are on the transom. The cutout should have stayed the same, the Stellings inner transom plate ids a pretty weak piece, not sure if you could re-use it with out box but don't see why not. You will have ALOT of work cutout for you to get motor back in the right place the way your motor is mounted , good luck, Smitty

Talk with Gordo he can tell you what to expect.
Steve

What was wrong with how it handled? Thought it only had a slight mid range porpoise in calm water and no tab? Boat had all hook removed so I don't think removing the box will help

Why dont you at least try a 1/2 inch or 1 inch spacer before you do all that work?

Looks like alot of work, and will probably lower the X dimension also. Nice looking setup though ! Had a buddy with a 42 that had boxes, and he didnt like them either.

Inspector- The boat has offshore water pick-up, on other side of drive in pic.

K. A.- Engine is coming out anyway to make oil pan repair. I also already dropped the drive .5"

Smitty- I love the way it hadles in the rough, its in the calm water it porpoises/hops at any speed above 63( it was 60 before I dropped the drive .5") Yeah Re-alignment is my biggest worry.

I thought the inner transom plate was a stock bravo unit?

lil red- it never powers through the porpoise. Rob had a lot more power than I have in the boat. Yeah, no hook or rocker but that guy Gordo and others have a similar set-up, minus the box, and no porpoise.

Gordo recomended removal also, but I did not ask him whats involved.

Looks like X-dem. is around 19 inches. That is, my crank shaft centerline is about 19 " above keel. and my Propshaft is 3.5" below keel. 2" drive space installed.

I love the way the boat handles in the rough at any speed. My problem is when I am in calm water, at any speed above 63-65 the boat hops/ porpoises. I have tried props, lab, cup, 4 & 5 blade and lowering the drive just seems to scrub speed. The tabs only stop it if I plow the bow and that scrubs 10 mph. I have just come to the conclusion that the boat is not set-up for calm water.