oil change question
12-27-2011, 12:09 PM
#11
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12-28-2011, 12:25 PM
#12
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Any contaminants in the oil can start to affect the metal in the engine over time. This is why car manufacturers state to change the oil after so many miles, or so much time, depending on which is first. Most engine manual instructions I believe do the same....
Plus, if you have to ask, change it anyway. I change mine at the beginning and end of each season. Regardless of hours. If I have more then 30 hours during a season, then I change it again during the season. Never been broken down and have always run well..... Cheap insurance when considering the cost of a rebuild....
Plus, if you have to ask, change it anyway. I change mine at the beginning and end of each season. Regardless of hours. If I have more then 30 hours during a season, then I change it again during the season. Never been broken down and have always run well..... Cheap insurance when considering the cost of a rebuild....
12-28-2011, 12:56 PM
#13
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??? Is that a typo or do you really change fresh oil just because it sat in the motor all winter? I change mine at lay-up time and run the engine long enough to circulate the new oil. Then I usually change it once in the middle of the season. (about every 20 hours)
12-28-2011, 03:52 PM
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??? Is that a typo or do you really change fresh oil just because it sat in the motor all winter? I change mine at lay-up time and run the engine long enough to circulate the new oil. Then I usually change it once in the middle of the season. (about every 20 hours)
Nope, not a typo at all. I change at the beginning and end of each season. Oil sitting in an engine for an extended period of time (i.e. 6 months or so) tends to leach contaminates into the metal and affect bearings, oil lines, seals, etc. Granted, this is not a huge problem, but over the years it can take a toll. I have always been taught, and a lot of folks agree, that putting fresh oil in helps keep this process at bay. I use either Merc Synthetic or Amsoil when running during the season, and back down to a non-synth Rotella or Delo 15-40 for storage. (This way it does not get to expensive just for storage. )
In my 22 years of boating, I have never had an issue with any oil-related problems on ANY of my boats. It may seem in excess to some, but it seems to work out very well for me. My last Sea Ray 340 had over 1500 hours on the original 454's. Still had 30psi at idles and 45 at cruise. I was doing something right.
Like I said earlier, if you have to ask then change it. It is cheap insurance.
12-28-2011, 04:02 PM
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Nope, not a typo at all. I change at the beginning and end of each season. Oil sitting in an engine for an extended period of time (i.e. 6 months or so) tends to leach contaminates into the metal and affect bearings, oil lines, seals, etc. Granted, this is not a huge problem, but over the years it can take a toll. I have always been taught, and a lot of folks agree, that putting fresh oil in helps keep this process at bay. I use either Merc Synthetic or Amsoil when running during the season, and back down to a non-synth Rotella or Delo 15-40 for storage. (This way it does not get to expensive just for storage. )
In my 22 years of boating, I have never had an issue with any oil-related problems on ANY of my boats. It may seem in excess to some, but it seems to work out very well for me. My last Sea Ray 340 had over 1500 hours on the original 454's. Still had 30psi at idles and 45 at cruise. I was doing something right.
Like I said earlier, if you have to ask then change it. It is cheap insurance.
In my 22 years of boating, I have never had an issue with any oil-related problems on ANY of my boats. It may seem in excess to some, but it seems to work out very well for me. My last Sea Ray 340 had over 1500 hours on the original 454's. Still had 30psi at idles and 45 at cruise. I was doing something right.
Like I said earlier, if you have to ask then change it. It is cheap insurance.
12-28-2011, 04:15 PM
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All I can say is you guys worry way too much. Its a good thing you don't have 3 boats with 5 engines. Your carbon footprint would look like godzillas. Not to mention I have never seen evidence of these acids or byproducts of combustion ever causing internal damage to any engine. Now if your oil is shot from over temp or dirty from too many hrs or other failure like fueling, change it. Otherwise you are just enriching those in the crude oil patch.
12-28-2011, 04:18 PM
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It's OK if your not as anal retentive as I am. This is just what I do. I used to conduct oil analysis of my oil several times a year on previous boats. I can attest that the oil after sitting for a storage period is not "new" any longer..... It looks new, but.....
12-28-2011, 04:20 PM
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All I can say is you guys worry way too much. Its a good thing you don't have 3 boats with 5 engines. Your carbon footprint would look like godzillas. Not to mention I have never seen evidence of these acids or byproducts of combustion ever causing internal damage to any engine. Now if your oil is shot from over temp or dirty from too many hrs or other failure like fueling, change it. Otherwise you are just enriching those in the crude oil patch.
12-28-2011, 05:10 PM
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After you change the oil at the end of the season, run it so it is circulated and store it for 5-6 moths, it is no longer "new oil". When you drained the last of your old oil out, your motor is not suddenly sterile. Contaminates still reside in the residue of the old oil and at the bottom of your oil pan and lifter valley. When you changed that oil at the end of the season and recirculated the new oil, you started the contamination process all over again.
It's OK if your not as anal retentive as I am. This is just what I do. I used to conduct oil analysis of my oil several times a year on previous boats. I can attest that the oil after sitting for a storage period is not "new" any longer..... It looks new, but.....
It's OK if your not as anal retentive as I am. This is just what I do. I used to conduct oil analysis of my oil several times a year on previous boats. I can attest that the oil after sitting for a storage period is not "new" any longer..... It looks new, but.....
There's certainly nothing wrong with your oil change schedule. Oil is very cheap compared to motors. I have done the same in the past as well, although I usually use a less expensive oil for the storage months then switch back to the good stuff for the summer.
12-28-2011, 07:22 PM
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All I can say is you guys worry way too much. Its a good thing you don't have 3 boats with 5 engines. Your carbon footprint would look like godzillas. Not to mention I have never seen evidence of these acids or byproducts of combustion ever causing internal damage to any engine. Now if your oil is shot from over temp or dirty from too many hrs or other failure like fueling, change it. Otherwise you are just enriching those in the crude oil patch.
