High Oil Temp? 540 Dart Block with AFR Heads
#12
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Location: sint maarten
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Thank you everyone, makes me feel better for sure. I will take a look to see if i can tell where the sensor is and it may be before the cooler like you said, which is great. The motors def run rich, as I noticed black soot on the transom after running the first 2-3 hours. They have 500 EFI intakes with throttle body work to feed the 540s done by CK Motorsports in MI, first time I ran 93, he says do not and run 87 and soot should go away. We will see when summer finally comes again here...
i'm surprised you just have soot on the transom... i would expect the plugs to be black and the bores.well on their way to being glazed...
#14
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if i understand you correctly and this boat is still injected and you are running the water temp that cold then you are simply fuel washing the cylinders and filling up the oil with unburned fuel because the water temp sensor is telling the ECU that you are trying to start the boat and run it in vermont in january...
i'm surprised you just have soot on the transom... i would expect the plugs to be black and the bores.well on their way to being glazed...
i'm surprised you just have soot on the transom... i would expect the plugs to be black and the bores.well on their way to being glazed...
Usually T-stats are pulled in supercharged motors to protect from detonation.
Sometimes they are pulled to winterize motors too.
#15
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Since mods have been made to the injection system, I would find out why it appears that there is no thermostat in the cooling system. Stock EFI's monitor engine temps to adjust fuel mixture and stay "rich" until warm temps are detected. If the motors were still programmed as stock they would probably load up so bad after a run they would not idle again after coming off plane.
Usually T-stats are pulled in supercharged motors to protect from detonation.
Sometimes they are pulled to winterize motors too.
Usually T-stats are pulled in supercharged motors to protect from detonation.
Sometimes they are pulled to winterize motors too.
#16
temp should be 170 for fuel inj .i agree with these guys . you are dumping raw gas down the motor .few years back my small block the sender went bad and the motor ran real bad .then i put a new one in and ran good after that
#17
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Mike,
220 is a good oil temp. Like stated by others, the oil temp should reach higher than the boiling point of water (212F) in order to remove condensation.
Doc most likely removed the thermostats on those engines because of the whipples he was running. You will have to find someone smarter than me to ask if they really need to go back on. Or find Doc on here and see if he still has the old housings?
220 is a good oil temp. Like stated by others, the oil temp should reach higher than the boiling point of water (212F) in order to remove condensation.
Doc most likely removed the thermostats on those engines because of the whipples he was running. You will have to find someone smarter than me to ask if they really need to go back on. Or find Doc on here and see if he still has the old housings?
#18
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I am going to the source of the conversion and hope to get some right answers from the guys in Michigan. We will see how the comp's are set up on this. I appreciate the help, least its winter and I have time ti figure this out for 5 months.
#19
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If you only have two lines coming off the thermostat housing, it's designed to run without a thermostat. You need three lines, the third is the bypass when the thermostat is closed. You could rig a bypass system coming off the back of the intake with smaller lines. It would take a little longer to warm up, but it would be less prone to detonation than without them. I pushing the limit on my 524 and I had my intake drilled and tapped to pull water off the back side to prevent air or steam pockets forming. I'm also running without a circ pump, but I have a Stewart 160 thermostat and three lines off of the thermostat housing.