Max horsepower from a 350
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Well I just heard back from the seller and he said the motor was built by David Dewey, anyone heard of him? It was rebuilt quite a while ago and has sit for the last 8 years with l only a couple hours put on it. He didn't remember the internals that were built but he said there is an aluminum ilstreet dominator intake, Chevy bow tie heads, pistons, roller rocker arms, Holley double pump carb and osco exhaust risers. He didn't remember the specs on the internals replaced but knew at least that much was replaced. I asked him to recheck the compression with a different gauge when he gets a chance and he's still reading 190 to just shy of 200... Thoughts?
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It may be camed with a duration/overlap that is building a lot of cylinder pressure. Without having the Cam card from the cam grinder anything is a guess.
When it's running does it have a seriously "lumpy" idle or does it idle out ok at around 800 RPM? I say set the timing at 32 deg total advance and run it...don't beat on it but run it out a few times and see how it responds in your boat. If it has a terrible low end and is a real top end screamer you can easily re-cam it to something more drivable...then again it might turn out to be just right for your use.
Good luck with this...hope it works out for you.
When it's running does it have a seriously "lumpy" idle or does it idle out ok at around 800 RPM? I say set the timing at 32 deg total advance and run it...don't beat on it but run it out a few times and see how it responds in your boat. If it has a terrible low end and is a real top end screamer you can easily re-cam it to something more drivable...then again it might turn out to be just right for your use.
Good luck with this...hope it works out for you.
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If the engine has a fairly loppey idle I would suspect it has a fairly moderate duration camshaft which if normally installed should not generate static cranking compressions like those. Remember this engine was built 8-10 years ago and back then 93 or higher octane fuel was readily available and much cheaper. The GM bow-tie heads with the smaller 64 cc combustion chambers and a flat top piston in this engine could generate some pretty good compression ratios and numbers like these. If the heads are iron heads and this engine has the higher than recommended compression ratio for regular pump gas the engine under load may be a detonation "time bomb" without high octane fuel and very conservative iginition advance. I would not set up an iron small block engine in a marine engine use with compression higher than lets say 9.5 to 1 to run on readily available 89-91 pump gas. I know there are ways to run higher with special timing, aluminum heads and higher octane fuel but these are not really practical builds, and in this case I don't think those thoughts were even on the radar for this particular engine. Hope this puppy has the aluminum Bow-tie heads.
Was this David Dewey an expierenced marine engine builder or just a local high performance street and rod engine builder?
Best Regards,
Ray @ Raylar
Was this David Dewey an expierenced marine engine builder or just a local high performance street and rod engine builder?
Best Regards,
Ray @ Raylar
Last edited by Raylar; 01-22-2012 at 02:03 PM.
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When in Doubt-Check it Out!
85scorpian:
I can't say here for sure because we really don't have all the facts and parts specs.. The timing you quoted sounds like initial timing advance which is not excessive or really the problem. It will be what the real compression ratio is, whether the heads are iron or aluminum and what the total timing advance will be at lets say 3000 rpms under load.
This engine isn't going to detonate at idle, low rpms or under light loads, it will do it under full loads at midrange and high rpms. If this occurs, timing curves and limits can be moved back and fueling can be somewhat richened and higher octane used to counter these possible effects. There are some options here, but knowing where you are at to begin with is important before you go put'tin the hammer down on this puppy!
Total timing can be measured and plotted from the engine and a timing light degree readout. Its pretty easy to see or know if heads are aluminum or iron, a magnet will tell that quickly if they are painted.
Just take some time now and insure you will be using this engine in the boat in mode as reliable and safe as possible to protect your investment and eliminate a season ending problem.
Best Regards,
Ray @ Raylar
I can't say here for sure because we really don't have all the facts and parts specs.. The timing you quoted sounds like initial timing advance which is not excessive or really the problem. It will be what the real compression ratio is, whether the heads are iron or aluminum and what the total timing advance will be at lets say 3000 rpms under load.
This engine isn't going to detonate at idle, low rpms or under light loads, it will do it under full loads at midrange and high rpms. If this occurs, timing curves and limits can be moved back and fueling can be somewhat richened and higher octane used to counter these possible effects. There are some options here, but knowing where you are at to begin with is important before you go put'tin the hammer down on this puppy!
Total timing can be measured and plotted from the engine and a timing light degree readout. Its pretty easy to see or know if heads are aluminum or iron, a magnet will tell that quickly if they are painted.
Just take some time now and insure you will be using this engine in the boat in mode as reliable and safe as possible to protect your investment and eliminate a season ending problem.
Best Regards,
Ray @ Raylar