Rage

Thanks for the input. I seem to recall a conversation that we had about engine oil temperature a while back where I thought you said that your's did not get too hot because when it got to ~250F I think it was you just reduced from WOT and that you never ran at WOT 15 min or longer. Am I remembering correctly or not?

Thanks

Raylar

If you don't have the high volume 10778 oil pump and you are uising the stock GM pump that is not helping. You need volume to remove heat and oil pressure is not the key, volume is the key for removing heat to the cooler.
Where and how are you measuring crankcase temperature. You should be just measuring oil temperature prior to it leaving the pan going to the cooler, preferably at the oil pad adaptor.
There could easily be crankcase temps in the 270 range depending on what you are measuring, but its the oil temperature that's important not air temps in the crankcase.
Oil temps going 230-250 after hard long WOT runs do not bother me especially if you are using a good synthetic oil in the correct weights. It should cool back down quickly to about 195-210 which is where you want to keep the oil temp to keep moisture and condensation out of the oil.

Best Regards,
Ray @ Raylar

WETTE VETTE

I run the CP T-stat cooler and never see temps over 230 with around 950 HP at 6500+ RPM. And they stay at around 200 once warm all of the time. I am running their 1000 HP cooler which may be bigger than yours, but I agree with others that something else is wrong. Have you shot the pan, oil lines etc after a hard run with a laser temp gun to double check your guages? I had a buddy who was concerned with his 260 degree temps and he didn't even run a t-stat with a big cooler. Something didn't add up so he shot the pan with the laser and it read 190 and the lines agreed and his guage said 260. Turns out the guages were wrong for the senders he was running. If it is getting that hot you need to find the reason. It could be the cooler, but if not a bigger cooler will just be a band aid. Too much oil in the pan will make it run hot!

GTOFFSHORE

I get what your saying. What is your oil pressure? Personally I would increase the cooler size and add more capacity to your sys. I would also run without a thermostat. If you are going to run hard you will hear it up enough to burn the water off. Unless of course you live way up north. Like raylar says if all else is as should be the. What other answer could there be? This is not new and has led to many melted engines. We designed mine to be run wot for distance. Although my motor is much larger I like overkill in cooler size. I have lost one to many motors because of heat.

Rage

[QUOTE=Raylar;362165

Rage

Thanks for the input.

I have shot the crank case with an infared temp gun and calibrated the oil temp sensors and they all agree with the standard. The reason for the high oil temps is insufficient oil flow rate through the oil cooler which is working just fine at the current (inadequate) oil flow rate. A bigger cooler would do nothing unless the oil flow rate is increased which might be all that is needed with the current oil cooler TBD. I have reduced the oil in the crankcase 1 qt below spec and no difference.

Rage

Thanks for the input. See above in red.

SFOcean

iTrader: (1)

If you are putting 270+ deg. oil into your cooler and are getting 190 deg. out and the oil temp into the cooler is still climbing; you really ought to do yourself a favor and bypass your thermostat and maybe even your oil filter if that has a bypass in it and anything else that may let oil bypass (block has a bypass in it I think?). It really seems that all of your oil is not passing through the cooler. Once you have ALL of your oil passing through the cooler, you should be okay with temps in the pan. Then you can find where the problem was by re-connecting one thing at a time. Anyway, good luck.

dereknkathy

when i first read this post, i started to say "raise the water level in the bilge so it is a couple inches up the pan. that would cool the oil in the pan." obviously a stupid joke. but, you don't really care about the oil temp while it is in the pan. when it is sitting there, it isn't really doing anything. the oil pump picks it up, hot, and sends it out the oil filter adapter to the cooler. by the time it comes back from the cooler it is at a temp you are comfortable with. then it goes into the big tube inside the block that feeds all the bearings. by the time the oil is done keeping the bearings away from the crankshaft, it is too hot again. you could do a dry-sump oil system and have a way to cool the "sump" oil because you are keeping it elsewhere, but that is just the symptom, not the problem. the main oil galley in the block, or the crank and bearings is where the oil is being heated. the lower block temp is too high because of poor coolant flow down low, or there is something wrong in crank and bearings. you are in missouri. a long way from salt. raw water cooling? or closed system? if you are using the mississippi or missouri rivers for anti-freeze, you have a bunch of gluck in the bottom of your block keeping all the cooling water away. coolant temp is measured way up on top of the intake manifold. won't see it on the regular temp guage.

Rage

Merc Racing says that as long as the oil does not exceed 300F it is OK and their engine oil temp sensors are located in the cooled oil going into the engine. When you talk to the oil manufactures they seem to say ~270F or there about should be the limit. The problem is that as the oil temp goes up the rate it is breaking down goes up as well....probably exponentially. That means the 20W50 oil becomes 100W0 sludge in the extreme. Then there is the oil pressure which drops as temp goes up. Above 300F all oils act like water. That problem is obvious. Of course real race engines change oil after every race. I guess that is an option of sorts.