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Old 06-04-2016, 10:29 AM
  #31  
253
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Also, you need to remove the air intake screens ,,clean the air intake screens regularly,,, the fine dust sucks directly into them and they will get plugged up to the point your 496 will derate itself, and then you will pay many hundreds of dollars for someone to figure out why its not running correctly.
Rub your hand across the bottom of the air intake screens, you will be amazed at how dirty they get.

Last edited by 253; 06-04-2016 at 10:31 AM.
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Old 06-05-2016, 11:51 AM
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Originally Posted by 253
Also, you need to remove the air intake screens ,,clean the air intake screens regularly,,, the fine dust sucks directly into them and they will get plugged up to the point your 496 will derate itself, and then you will pay many hundreds of dollars for someone to figure out why its not running correctly.
Rub your hand across the bottom of the air intake screens, you will be amazed at how dirty they get.
Already on it, thanks...Problem is you can't get all the belt dust out. So I researched chemicals that dissolve rubber, belt debris is nasty crap. Also, I am gonna go with K&N's
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Old 06-05-2016, 08:23 PM
  #33  
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there is other things in the mix that can cause belt dust / wear

the belt(s) need proper adjustment is the number 1 cause,

next is rust on the pulley's,

next is misalignment,

also once wear starts to take place it will accelerate the issue even more

Stretch belts wear faster causing belt dust,

Worn pulley's and or its bearings,

pulley's that do not rotate freely.

loose pulley's,

bad tensioner,

gas fumes in the engine compartment overtime weaken the belt structure.

condensation some engine compartments do not vent very well. Harbors condensation all the time

Last edited by BUP; 06-05-2016 at 08:26 PM.
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Old 06-06-2016, 03:08 PM
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Originally Posted by zemaestro
Old thread revival. I am going through this right now, but in order to use the updated (fixed) altenator mounting position, I had to mill off part of the power steering bracket because it wouldn't allow me to install the new alt bracket. So did you guys replace the power steering pump bracket as well? Because the idler pulley on the PS bracket sits too high causing the belt to touch on its way from alt to engine water pump...UGH. I can use the old routing but will need something longer than the 111.25" belt. I believe the new tensioned engines use a 99 inch belt
You are correct. I realized the power steering bracket was slightly different after i did all the conversion but never came back to update the post.. Hope you got your belt length worked out. Take care!
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Old 06-06-2016, 03:10 PM
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Originally Posted by zemaestro
Old thread revival. I am going through this right now, but in order to use the updated (fixed) altenator mounting position, I had to mill off part of the power steering bracket because it wouldn't allow me to install the new alt bracket. So did you guys replace the power steering pump bracket as well? Because the idler pulley on the PS bracket sits too high causing the belt to touch on its way from alt to engine water pump...UGH. I can use the old routing but will need something longer than the 111.25" belt. I believe the new tensioned engines use a 99 inch belt
Also, it's hard to beat gasoline for parts cleaner.. unless you smoke a lot and have irresponsible people around you - takes the belt/grease smear right outta your way.
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Old 06-07-2016, 11:03 AM
  #36  
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cleaning rubber products in gas as rubber products derive from an oil base and gas is a super cleaner that will pull the oil by product out of the rubber component , E 10 gas is very drying kind of like rubbing alcohol hence why your rubber fuel lines degrade / rot out alot faster than years ago. It dries out the lubricity of the rubber product. Just saying.

Like I said the first 3 factors for extended belt dust # 1 is improper belt adjustment / tension, # 2 is misalignment and # 3 is rust on the pulley's. Here is SB from Merc about belts shredding (misalignment ) but will add this causes alot of belt dust before the belt even shreds. Just the jist on how to check your belt / pulley alignment for reference if needed for whomever. This SB has been for years.

http://www.mercruiserparts.com/bulle...2003/EN_04.PDF

Last edited by BUP; 06-07-2016 at 11:08 AM.
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Old 06-07-2016, 11:09 AM
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Originally Posted by BUP
cleaning rubber products in gas as rubber products derive from an oil base and gas is a super cleaner that will pull the oil by product out of the rubber component , E 10 gas is very drying kind of like rubbing alcohol hence why your rubber fuel lines degrade / rot alot faster than years ago. It dries out the lubricity of the rubber product. Just saying.

Like I said the first 3 factors for extended belt dust # 1 is improper belt adjustment, # 2 is misalignment and # 3 is rust on the pulley's. Here is SB from Merc about belts shredding (misalignment ) but will add this causes alot of belt dust before the belt even shreds. Just the jist on how to check your belt / pulley alignment for reference if needed for whomever. This SB has been for years.

http://www.mercruiserparts.com/bulle...2003/EN_04.PDF
I didn't tell him to soak his drive belt in gas... I said it cleans parts well and it does. None of your alignment concerns are the cause on this. All of these engines vary on how much/little they make but they all get dirty. Doesn't matter how perfect the pulleys are. The engines do this right outta the box - some more than others.
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Old 06-07-2016, 11:16 AM
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I've got the same observation -- Only I see the most of this at the air intake -- I likewise have a Cobalt 7.4 MPI (stock). Being the anal retentive person I am - I clean the air intake at every re-fill of fuel. If that is once a day - so be it. It is quick and easy and it sure doesn't hurt.

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Old 06-12-2016, 06:54 AM
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I finally got the pulleys and belts installed. There is some misinformation in this thread regarding parts. When I get time I will post all parts so that someone can do the conversion with less hassle. Pulley alignment is huge! I have never seen anything this sloppy in the modern automotive world. Never ever thought to check alignment 3 years ago. Thanks BUP you are an assest to this forum.
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Old 06-12-2016, 10:15 AM
  #40  
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SDFever I was not posting that U did say to clean rubber parts in gas - I make broad informative posts for everyone. Was not pin pointing at your post. My post was an info post so no one uses gas to clean any rubber components. I was not singling your post out.

Like I said the top 3 for belt dust I have posted above in ORDER and then posted other reasons afterwards.

Misalignment the second or third biggest cause. Looks like the OP had that problem as well per his post.

one small example - People who do their own water pumps on MPI 350 MAG with Gen VII water pumps - most install the bracket / pulley wrong upon reassembly - this causes a misalignment inwhich you can not see when the belt is reinstalled. - Down the road that boat owner will come in because he has a warning horn going off. Flame arrestor is fill with belt dust - that KNOCKED out the IAC and the IAC MUFFLER is black as tar hence bad IAC and warning horn.

SO just replacing the IAC does not fix the problem - you have to find the caused problem source that knocked out the IAC and fix that first - ie: belt dust - then find the reason why so much belt dust. Again I listed the top 3 for belt dust and 85 % of the time its one of them but in this case its 95 % misalignment cause by the boat owner upon his own reassembly. Extra info on top of. So watch out for your own or someone else misalignments assemblies for any belt installments. I posted the SB showing one small example how it can be checked.

Last edited by BUP; 06-12-2016 at 10:26 AM.
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