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Quote:

Originally Posted by BUP (Post 4448752)

SDFever I was not posting that U did say to clean rubber parts in gas - I make broad informative posts for everyone. Was not pin pointing at your post. My post was an info post so no one uses gas to clean any rubber components. I was not singling your post out.

Like I said the top 3 for belt dust I have posted above in ORDER and then posted other reasons afterwards.

Misalignment the second or third biggest cause. Looks like the OP had that problem as well per his post.

one small example - People who do their own water pumps on MPI 350 MAG with Gen VII water pumps - most install the bracket / pulley wrong upon reassembly - this causes a misalignment inwhich you can not see when the belt is reinstalled. - Down the road that boat owner will come in because he has a warning horn going off. Flame arrestor is fill with belt dust - that KNOCKED out the IAC and the IAC MUFFLER is black as tar hence bad IAC and warning horn.

SO just replacing the IAC does not fix the problem - you have to find the caused problem source that knocked out the IAC and fix that first - ie: belt dust - then find the reason why so much belt dust. Again I listed the top 3 for belt dust and 85 % of the time its one of them but in this case its 95 % misalignment cause by the boat owner upon his own reassembly. Extra info on top of. So watch out for your own or someone else misalignments assemblies for any belt installments. I posted the SB showing one small example how it can be checked.

This is why I was thanking you...you take time to help us. It is funny that you just brought up the IAC as my random thoughts this morning matched your description exactly. I had already decided to pull of the IAC hoses and clean them as well, probably replace both IAC's for fun...And then I will be moving on to remove these damn check valves in the bottom of the exhaust manifolds that were used in the earlier models. I want to divert water from heat exchanger directly to the manifolds. I want to eliminate the tiny bit of raw water that makes it through the valves. I was told that stainless marine exhausts does this anyway.

Success, I am sure it was a combo of all things BUP mentioned....But I am happy, have great water pressure with the Hardins, risers cool, engines run perfectly! sweet day on the chesapeake bay

Quote:

Originally Posted by SDFever (Post 4289111)

Here's a list that is all-inclusive to my knowledge if you care; it's been discussed before but no parts or pricing was ever posted. It's around 300 bucks plus freight.

865596T01 BRACKET, Idler Pulley $72.05
865597T TENSIONER, Belt $90.31
865777 PULLEY, Idler, Non-Grooved $29.13
10-4010820 SCREW, (M10 x 20) Hex Flange - Stainless Steel $3.13 QTY 2
10-88552630 SCREW, (M8 x 30) $2.64 QTY 2 or 1 pack of 2..
865594T01 BRACKET, Alternator $60.20
11-401368 NUT, (M8) Stainless Steel $3.42
10-40108120 SCREW, (M10 x 120) Hex Flange - Stainless Steel $8.98
10-4010835 SCREW, (M10 x 35) Hex Flange - Stainless Steel $4.78
10-88552660 SCREW, (M8 x 60) $2.93
10-824459110 SCREW, (M8 x 110) Stainless Steel $10.34

Quote:

Originally Posted by zemaestro (Post 4448693)

I finally got the pulleys and belts installed. There is some misinformation in this thread regarding parts. When I get time I will post all parts so that someone can do the conversion with less hassle. Pulley alignment is huge! I have never seen anything this sloppy in the modern automotive world. Never ever thought to check alignment 3 years ago. Thanks BUP you are an assest to this forum.

zemaestro,

About to swap motors in my boat, looking to upgrade to the auto tensioner. Is there anything else other than the above list that you remember needing?

Quote:

Originally Posted by mhenry1282 (Post 4618551)

zemaestro,

About to swap motors in my boat, looking to upgrade to the auto tensioner. Is there anything else other than the above list that you remember needing?

i think they recently discontinued one of those brackets. i think when i bought mine i recall this. check before you pay for all that stuff and have to return. i don't remember it's been long time. fyi - it did not help much with my dust.

you can machine down the power steering bracket to work with the alternator if you need to. the pictures don't really suggest that the ps bracket hast to change but it does unless you modify it. i missed it until time to reassemble..

now i remember, i failed to list the ps bracket in my list so i will go back and edit that.

Has anyone done this recently? I can't get the new belts on my 2004 496 mag with only the alternator adjustment. So I'm thinking I have to convert to the automatic tensioner system just to get the belts on. Over $600 to replace 2 belts. Ridiculous!!

Quote:

Originally Posted by SDFever (Post 4618778)

How does the PS bracket need to be machined? Does a section have to be ground out? I'm making a parts list and I see that the PS bracket has been superseded and might be because of a redesigned power steering pump.

Quote:

Originally Posted by zemaestro (Post 4448693)

What did you need to do for the power steering bracket? Also, does the stock belt for the newer 496's (that come stock with the auto-tensioner) work on this conversion?

I am thinking of doing this conversion on my Formula 330 SS with twin 496 mags. Seems to make dust from both belts but way more from my starboard engine. I did not notice much dust before but I now have a squeal on start up from the starboard engine and am assuming its from a pulley or component failing and accelerating the dust. Strange thing is it stops squealing after a second or two and idles properly when warm.

My plan is to remove the belt, check for a bad pulley or component then change over to the auto tensioner as well. I will wait to see what your outcome is FBronco... Please update this thread if you can with your findings...

Thanks,
Phil