that seems like a lot of sustained revs to me for a long stroke boosted motor... but i suppose you have experience with this configuration to know...

i think you are lifting the heads...

check to make sure the bolts that go into the water jacket are properly sealed. I believe most aftermarket blocks are blind holes, some GM blocks aren't. I also had a problem with a cracked block, did the same thing.

Yea, that seems pretty high to me to. Until I see the build sheet I'm not believing anything!!

I'm running ARP head studs and only 8.5 lbs of boost..Really Head lift?? Have you seen that before running studs??

i was joking when i said put the old prop back on. one step better than digging out an old set of peanut heads...it would get you to Havasu though. take wet oil, put it in a pot. put it on gas grill. 220 degrees for a while should do it.

Couple of questions and a suggestion.
One, does the engine have a chiller under the blower?
If it does, check it for a leak.
Two, are the CMI headers new to the engine or configured differently than your original exhaust setup?
Three, how is the exhaust tips and water entry into the tailpipes configured, ie s-tubes, captain's call, etc, or straight out the back with wet tips or dry tips?

Suggestion: to check for possible reversion, remove a header off a side and take a careful look inside header at exhaust port area and even in exhaust port and see if there is any evidence of water stains or deposits in those areas. I have seen a reverting engine make milk shake out of engines oil and breather systems in only a few minutes running time, especially when idling with a blower with mild surge.

Just some added ideas and info here.
Hope its simple and minor!

Best Regards,
Ray @ Raylar

Thanks Ray,

Yes, I have a chiller...there was some water sitting on top of two of the bolts that hold the manifold on..but when I pressure tested the 1st time..that is where one of the leaks were..I can pressure test it (and will)..but everything looked good.

CMI..you know I hunted down the reversion when I first had this issue..and had CMI pressure test the headers and there was a small leak on one of the headers..I thought that was it..slapped it all together and nope..just was a small leak I found. They are over the transom and I have three sets of tips..two sets of wet and a set of dry. The wet have been on every motor that has been in that boat and have never had a problem with reversion. I do have quite a surge as most know how hard it is on the outdrive to go into gear otherwise. Oh, and I was running the dry exhaust when this all started but went back to the wet as the water pressures are lower with wet.

One other thing I noticed was the port match on the intake doesn't look perfect on one side. The bolt holes have been drilled out I noticed..I wonder if maybe I just didn't have the ports lined up perfect and when the pressure comes up it starts to leak.

How do they port match intakes to heads?? Is it done on the motor?? Or do they have a way of doing it off..cause bringing in a set of heads and an intake would be a lot easier.

Ha!! Trust me I have been thinking of just running with the old prop..but it slow to plane and barely operates in it's power band.

I tried bypassing the oil cooler to get that oil hot..and still only get 180-190 at WOT..thing is cold blooded..plus the water at this time of year is a mighty chilly!!

I assume you don't have an oil thermostat? Is that correct? If you don't have an oil thermostat and bypassing the cooler only generates 180* oil temps, then it is quite possible that you are seeing condensation. Running with the cooler probably results in oil temp in about the 140* area?

Personally, I never run an engine without an oil thermostat. I would strongly recommend it. It just may fix your problem. If nothing else, it will be much better for the valvesprings by getting them some hotter oil.
Eddie

No, I do not have an Oil thermostat..thought of adding one but read some bad things about them. It def makes sense to me to run one though.