Blowing out my dip stick?
 

I just started running my new rebuilt 502 Mag efi gen5 with whipple chargers. One engine is continually running 70 PSI+ on the oil pressure and when I go wide open it usually pops the dip stick out about 2" and pukes out some oil and what looks like a black goo out in my bilge. My oil level has been OK I checked it before and after each run. But the both times I have run it wide Open, I get this dip stick deal.

The oil pressure on the other engine is only about 60 PSI. What should I look for? Are ther PCV Valves or some sort of crank case ventilation that could be clogged? Could I have a bad piston ring seal and getting blow by? Should I tape up the stick so It wont come out. Both engines seem to run fine and are very strong. Any Ideas will help, I will be calling the Builder tomorrow.

Here is a picture of what I am getting:

Sorry forgot the Pict:

I had a motor that did that. Only after a good long hard run would I notice the dip stick sticking out. I think I blew up that motor before I found the problem. Hope you don't have the same luck. My first guess is you have too much blow-by & pressure has to go somewhere. Since you have 2 motors & one is not doing it. I would check for cloged breathers first. If that looks good then do a compression check. A leak down test will give you more information but I think it is harder to do then just a simple compresson test. If everything looks good then do leak down. Last thing to check is to verify if both dip sticks are the same length & marked the same. Also make sure dip stick tubes are same lenght.

This is definetly a reason for a leakdown test.

Ray, are you gettng any puffing out of the valve cover breather hoses?

If not it is likely that the dipstick is just working itself out do to vibration. On my engines I have a spring that hooks over the end of the dipstick and holds it in. Without the spring it will walk up and spray oil every place.

I've been having this problem on my port engine for some time. I latched it down to something to stop the pukage. I blew the motor that weekend (mem day). I have new motor in and am breaking it in. New long block. Still pooping dipstick out. Took channel locks to the neck of the dipstick to make it a tight fit on the tube. All is now well. If you have a blowby prob you can tell at the valve cover with how much smoke is coming out. I had a loose fitting dipstcik. Grenading of engine was not caused or a symptom of the dipstick poopage. You will know if something bad is causing that. Crimp it and be happy.

BT :cool:

Hey marc... we musta been typin the same time. Found any carrier bearings for me yet?

BT :cool:

Could be just a loose dip stick, It is not really very tight, I will try the channel lock method. and see what happends. I did not know this was a common occurance. Thanks.

I've heard of this problem happening before. Sometimes it's excess blow by, sometimes it's windage, sometimes is vibration. I believe that most of the dedicated race pans go to a screw in dipstick to eliminate this problem.

This is comon on alot of blower applications, if you are using a canton oil pan this is definatly a comon thing

I know this isn't the prettiest solution but I just thought of this:
It is a whole lot better than swapping the oil pan or dipstick.
Add a small hose clamp to your dipstick tube, at the top; and include in that hose clamp a strong tie-wrap (zip-tie) in a circle. Take another tie-wrap and wrap this throught that permanent loop attached to the hose clamp; and also through the loop on the pull handle of the dipstick itself. All you have to do to check your oil, is clip that tie-wrap going through the ring, and replace it when you are done, and ready to run.

I hope that helps.

i have a small hole drilled in the clamp that clams the dipstick tube in place against the head on both engines. a spring loops over to hold the dipstick in like previously stated. some blowbye is normal with forged pistons as long as it is not excessive. forged pistons expand more when heated than cast and hyperetics so they need more clearance when being built but thats the tradeoff for a stronger piston.

I have seen this problem if the dip stick tube is mounted to low on the front of the engine

I had a new 502 last year that when I ran hard for any lenght of time the stick would work up. I went to new valve covers with larger breathers and it stopped doing it.
I would think with the whipple charger you may have a little more blow by than without, even with a healthy motor.
The fact that you are getting that much oil leads me to believe you may have a clogged breather. A leak down test wouldn't be a bad idea, but I suspect not enough crankcase ventilation is the problem.
Are you running stock breathers??? If you are I would install larger breathers on both valve covers.

I am going out to run the boat today, I will check the breathers. I Talked to the engine builder and he thinks the black gunk is blowing out of the sea water pump where the fuel pump cover is. He also thinks the dip stick problem is from not reving the engine high enough. My props were not right and under full power I am at only 4500 RPM. He thinks the engine is loading up. popping the dip stick out and also causing my black transom. I will be trying some different props today.

Ya know, in that picture you posted the oil did look awfully dark, he might be on to something with the pump idea!!

Raypanic
This is a common problem with blower engines, the trick is drill a small hole in bracket that holds the tube and attach a spring from loop in dip stick to hole you drilled.