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Old 04-26-2012 | 03:53 AM
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Default new blown 502 short block pics....

It's finally coming together and beginning to look like something other than a big pile of parts. A few more obstacles than I had expected but the short block is just about wrapped up. I worked on it till 1am tonight. I ended up spending quite a bit of time on the rods in particular because I used the torque + angle method then went in and checked the stretch on the bolts after that. New to me, I've always just torqued the rod bolts on my motors in the past but after seeing the torque varying from bolt to bolt to achieve proper stretch....I think I'll use this method from now on. It's a lot more accurate!

Here's what's in it if your wondering:
516 cu. in. (bored, align honed, decked)
ARP main studs
stock steel crank (double keyed)
Oliver rods
Clevite h series coated rod bearings
Clevite h series 3/4 groove main bearings
Durabond coated cam bearings
SRP pistons
Total Seal rings (napier 2nd ring)
Melling select pump (std/std)
Marine Kenetics hyd. roller cam
Rollmaster timing chain
Morel lifters
ATI ballancer
Unleashed machine timing pointer
Dan Olson oil pan

http://i986.photobucket.com/albums/a...mark66/282.jpg

http://i986.photobucket.com/albums/a...mark66/283.jpg

http://i986.photobucket.com/albums/a...mark66/285.jpg

http://i986.photobucket.com/albums/a...mark66/286.jpg

http://i986.photobucket.com/albums/a...mark66/293.jpg

Last edited by mustangmark; 04-26-2012 at 04:10 AM.
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Old 04-26-2012 | 10:22 AM
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From: sint maarten
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Originally Posted by mustangmark
It's finally coming together and beginning to look like something other than a big pile of parts. A few more obstacles than I had expected but the short block is just about wrapped up. I worked on it till 1am tonight. I ended up spending quite a bit of time on the rods in particular because I used the torque + angle method then went in and checked the stretch on the bolts after that. New to me, I've always just torqued the rod bolts on my motors in the past but after seeing the torque varying from bolt to bolt to achieve proper stretch....I think I'll use this method from now on. It's a lot more accurate!

Here's what's in it if your wondering:
516 cu. in. (bored, align honed, decked)
ARP main studs
stock steel crank (double keyed)
Oliver rods
Clevite h series coated rod bearings
Clevite h series 3/4 groove main bearings
Durabond coated cam bearings
SRP pistons
Total Seal rings (napier 2nd ring)
Melling select pump (std/std)
Marine Kenetics hyd. roller cam
Rollmaster timing chain
Morel lifters
ATI ballancer
Unleashed machine timing pointer
Dan Olson oil pan

http://i986.photobucket.com/albums/a...mark66/282.jpg

http://i986.photobucket.com/albums/a...mark66/283.jpg

http://i986.photobucket.com/albums/a...mark66/285.jpg

http://i986.photobucket.com/albums/a...mark66/286.jpg

http://i986.photobucket.com/albums/a...mark66/293.jpg
just one bit of advice... if you are new to the stretch method you need to understand a couple of things...

first... there are no generic numbers. you need the stretch numbers from the guys that MADE the bolts... no the guy in the plaid pants and white shoes that sold them to you.

second... what you use for lubrication is critical. that same guy that gave you the number will tell you what lube to use on the bolts. use that and that only changing that can affect the preload.

third... the stretch method implies that they are reusable bolts... which is good. that also means that they should be repeatable... so... use your torque wrench to pull one up to a number thats short of the required stretch. measure the bolt. back it off and do it again with a slightly higher number... and keep doing that until one smooth pull gives you the stretch you want...

now... on another bolt in another location, try the single pull/ measure deal and you should be VERY close to correct... if not... find out why. good bolts used in properly machined and cleaned and lubricated threads should be so repeatable its almost hard to believe...

also... don't fully torque one without preloading the other just a bit... doing one completely and then the other can introduce a hinge load...

and working until 1 am doesn't make you a hero... it only makes you prone to impatience and error.

Last edited by stevesxm; 04-26-2012 at 10:25 AM.
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Old 04-26-2012 | 11:15 AM
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What advantage is there is using a 3/4 groove main bearing, just curious about that? Nice build btw and I appreciate your attention to detail.
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Old 04-26-2012 | 11:31 AM
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I called Oliver for the specs and used arp assem. lube. Also, I never thought of, claimed or implied I was some kind of hero for working late. Thanks for chiming in with the advise though....I appreciate it.
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Old 04-26-2012 | 01:48 PM
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From: sint maarten
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Originally Posted by mustangmark
I called Oliver for the specs and used arp assem. lube. Also, I never thought of, claimed or implied I was some kind of hero for working late. Thanks for chiming in with the advise though....I appreciate it.
just an observation that could have been phrased better.
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Old 04-26-2012 | 02:34 PM
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Originally Posted by stevesxm
just an observation that could have been phrased better.
I appreciate the input on the stretch info! You are right on the money.
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