Tf705

Check your oil cooler. Mine was clogged from the old impeller.

formula18

water out the exhaust is cool like the other motor so i know the water flow is excellent...its the diversion of the waters...i believe throught the thermostat houseing...im going to try another one....i think the saltwater has had its way with it...the checkballs were a bit loose i stretched the springs and its better...not perfect but better...runs 170 now and not 200...i want 155

Amarket Owner

If your engine is getting hot you must divide and check. Just fixing at random does not work.
Step one engine cooling hoses check.
Remove the output hose of the belt driven pump and insert a city water hose, disconnect the water hose that feeds the thermostat housing and allow it to fall into the bilge. If when the water is turned on the t/stat hose should pass plenty water.
If not the problem is here. Either a hose has an internal flaw blocking the passage or one of the oil coolers is pluged. If this test passes reconnect the t/stat hose and turn on the water on again.
The exhaust water from the prop should seem to be excessive and pressure should not form where the garden hose goes into the hose disconnected from the output to engine. Pressure indicates a blocked manifold or elbow.
Pressure and low output water in the prop and exhaust relief outside directs you to test the manifolds.
Manifold test
Connect the water hose to the t/stat end of the hose feeding the botton center of the manifold fitting and put full city pressure on. If a secondary hose feeds the front of the elbow then the hose here must be clamped during the test. With water on, the flow outside should look great and the hose to the lower fitting must be checked for pressure. Just clamp the hose during the test and you should be able to crush it inward and feel the water going through. If the hose feels like it is about to burst and stiff then the elbow is restricted and must be cleared or replaced. Every drop of water coming in to cool must fit through the elbow to get out.
The balance of cooling problem is due to the pump itself or the supply hose through the transom plate.
It is believed that a new impeller in the pump assures good pressure however some the newer gen 7 brass pumps get end body damage or swirl groves on ends of the impeller causing even a new impeller to create low pressure.
The other existing problem is the crushed input water hose through the transom plate. To check these problems there is an easy test. Put a short hose on the input of the pump and put the city hose loosely inside. with the water on the loose connection will leak very much, however if the motor is started and reved up the excess water should go away.
If the water does not suck into the pump and eliminate the leak, the pump should be checked. To check the transom plate hose replace the transom to pump hose with a light hose and in the water on a flusher you should rev up the motor. If the hose crushes under the suction of the raw water pump, the rear hose is restricted. This usually occurs just behind the plastic adapter for the hose connects to the transom plate.
Now that you know what area causes your problem the cure is easy.

If the water pump seems to be the problem, a fix is available here.

If the problem lies in the transom water supply hose, a fix is available here.

Good Luck!

ThisIsLivin

If you had rust in your oil cooler I would definitely pull the drain plugs in the block and check the water jackets. I do every season when I winterize.