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Originally Posted by halffast
(Post 3733561)
What is the fuel psi on the rail while cranking ? It has a test port. hf...
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Originally Posted by baja24outlaw
(Post 3737281)
45 lbs when key is switched to on and when pump shuts off it bleeds down faster than it should.
I removed the spark plugs today, all were original, but some black with carbon. # 3 was totally black, I am figuring this would be where my bad injector is. Let me know your thoughts. Thanks again. |
6.2 won't start
Well everything has been checked and changed, still to no avail. IAC replaced, TPI replaced, Fuel Pres Reg on fuel rail replaced, brand new spark plugs replaced, and this SOB still won't crank. spins and has an occasional sputter and you can hear deep stumbling coming from inside the throat of the throttle body. Wires are on correctly, I am done with it.
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This may be a bit of a long shot but I have been to hell and back with my 6.2 with under 60 hours on it. Pull the distributor cap and have a look at the inside top for both corrosion and tiny hair line cracks.
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Originally Posted by boatnuts
(Post 3738819)
This may be a bit of a long shot but I have been to hell and back with my 6.2 with under 60 hours on it. Pull the distributor cap and have a look at the inside top for both corrosion and tiny hair line cracks.
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These engines are becoming commonplace, so I suggest to you getting the basic Rinda scanner [ ca$ 4-500 ] at least. The 6.2's ECM555 monitoring 64 functions. If you hooked the engine up to the Rinda scanner, it would give you valuable information. Also, once you got the engine running ,check the injectors one by one with a Noid light [ available at every automotive store] to see if you have constant pulse flashing.
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Originally Posted by spectras only
(Post 3738877)
These engines are becoming commonplace, so I suggest to you getting the basic Rinda scanner [ ca$ 4-500 ] at least. The 6.2's ECM555 monitoring 64 functions. If you hooked the engine up to the Rinda scanner, it would give you valuable information. Also, once you got the engine running ,check the injectors one by one with a Noid light [ available at every automotive store] to see if you have constant pulse flashing.
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Bad grounds check for that also check the connections to the IAC and to the ECT for any corrosion / bad connections. Also U might need a new ECT = engine coolant sensor. Have this motor scanned.
Also have them check for intermittent opens or shorts to ground in the MAP sensor circuit. next have them check for proper operation of the TPS = Throttle position sensor. Anytime a marine shop gets a boat in for repairs the first thing the tech does is get the motor serial #. Mercruiser had two totally different 6.2's engines made. One started in the late 90's and the other started in early 2000's. Again two totally different set ups - one with MEFI 3 (late 90's thru ) the other was with PCM 555 computer controled (early 2000's) Just one example of how they were. Post ur serial #. Good luck with it. |
Originally Posted by boatnuts
(Post 3738819)
This may be a bit of a long shot but I have been to hell and back with my 6.2 with under 60 hours on it. Pull the distributor cap and have a look at the inside top for both corrosion and tiny hair line cracks.
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Originally Posted by baja24outlaw
(Post 3738954)
Thanks for everything, I am having the customer take it where they have this equipment, this has only cost us money and time we cannot charge for.
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