cjmatt

The previous owner of my boat replaced the interior in it, and needless to say, he was a dumbass. Last week running my 25' Sunsation hard in some chop it basically ripped my seat out of the floor. So rather than rig it back into place, I completely removed it last night to assess the damage. It was basically held in with short lag screws that didnt even go through the floor, they were screwed into some kind of white putty/filler that feels like a brittle caulk.

I pulled all the broken pieces out, vacuumed it, and this is what I'm left with. The left hand floor mount had two holes completely through the floor, and one that only went into it partially. the right hand side only had one bolt that didnt really even go into the floor. The only real mount holding the seat in was two bolts through the side fiberglass that mount the right side of the seat to the wall.







I only have about 2" between the bottom of the floor and my gas tank and can only access the left hand holes from underneath and the holes are about 1.5 feet in. the right hand side is completely unaccessable.

What is the proper way to mount the seat to the floor so that I dont have to worry about it coming loose any more?

BillR

Get these big enough - the should do fine. I used them on a boat before and they do the job.

http://www.ezlok.com/Home/index.html

28Eliminator

I had a similar problem years ago and bought some blind nut with zip ties/washer to pull it tight on the floor bottom. My seats have not came loose since I installed them. I have seen them at Menards and Cabelas. I will see if I can find a picture online for you.

rchevelle71

iTrader: (1)

Not exactly cheap, but the only way to roll in your case.......

http://www.iboats.com/Garelick-Toggl.../view_id.38770

Too Stroked

The only way to truly make sure they're not coming out again it to thru-bolt them. Several folks have already shown you ways to Toggle Bolt them and that's not bad. If you have foam below the floor though, you may need to make some clearance to get the toggle to actually open up. But you'll still have the issue of somewhat limited "purchase" by the toggle. A good sized Fender Washer or backing plate is the best way.

On my Progression, there is an 8" Inspection Port directly under each seat base. (Totally hidden with the seats in place.) When you open the port, you gain access to the area below the floor. This also gives you access to the Nylock nuts and large Fender Washers that hold the seat bases in place. You could probably duplicate this with a little work.

rchevelle71

iTrader: (1)

I agree, but he said he only has 2" between the floor and tank, that was my issue(25 sunsation, and 24 pantera probably very similar tank placement) and why I went with toggles.

cjmatt

how do those toggles work? the pics dont even show.

the holes are also kinda blown out, so Ill need something to sorta fill them. maybe bondo?

rchevelle71

iTrader: (1)

You drill I believe a 1/2" hole, fold the metal part up against the zip tie looking plastic part, and push thru the hole. Once thru the hole, the metal piece will flap down, and you pull the upper plastic insert tight against the floor, then cut off remaining plastic. The plastic holds the metal from falling down from the floor while you get the bolts started, they are easy to use once you grasp the concept, and work quite well.

Too Stroked

The problem with "fillers" is just that. They have no structural properties. They just take up space. That's part of the reason you have the problem you're now dealing with. What you're trying to do here is anchor the bolster brackets to something strong (the floor) and spread the force out over a larger area. That's where Fender Washers and / or Backing Plates - if you have room for them - are the way to go. If you don't have room, double up the number of fasteners and use the Toggle Bolts. That will also spread the force out.

JETTDOGG

iTrader: (1)

x2
I did it and you could;nt tear it out.