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Old 07-26-2012, 07:23 PM
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Originally Posted by mrfixxall
was reading and you just took the words off my fingers,,yes you need to drill a hole in the throttle body,it has to be close to the iac passage tho..this way the iac can compensate with out bottoming out..you have too much prop bite and its killing the engines,have you tryed to bring them up as high as possible to see if you can get some air around the blades to keep them from killing the engines..
I wouldn't start drilling though unless he sees the IAC counts are actually at end of the scale.
Tuner tech, I have heard of the pros using 2 IACS, good advice!
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Old 07-27-2012, 12:20 AM
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I'd try to adjust the throttle blade first (assuming it has an adjustment), then reset the TPS voltage as suggested. I was able to adjust the second stage throttle blade which doesn't change the TPS settings since it is attached to the first stage throttle blade. I keep my IAC count to between 0-10 units.

I'll have to search thru the files regarding droop.
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Old 07-27-2012, 08:00 AM
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TunerTech - can you provide some definitions for these droop tables and what they actually do? These values are from my bin file mefi 4a

idle droop spark stabilizer: 0.18000 deg/rpm (once parameter is flagged, .18deg per revolution is subtracted or added?)
Max rpm droop allowed for spark stabilizer: 300 (rpm must drop 300 before spark stabilizer is flagged?)

DB2 Constant large droop/flare error delay time before correction step: .0313
DB1 Constant small droop/flare error delay time before correction step: .0313
DB0 Constant droop/flare delay time before correction steep is made : .0313

I've been trying to work around a shift into fwd myself. When the motor is warm it seems to shift in/out no problem. but when it's cold, I have to whack it a bit and take advantage of the vacuum to get it in gear or be real quick on the throttle and catch it before it dies. I have noticed on my O2 readings that i get a lean spike going into gear yet I can't seem to get around it in the fuel table.

Thoughts?

Last edited by Griswald; 07-27-2012 at 08:15 AM.
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Old 07-27-2012, 06:40 PM
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DB stands for dead band It is all about transition without trying to get to technical. No time to write a book..

raise your "DB0" to .0625

raise your "step added to prevent stall" to 50. You may have to back it down if you get a little surge during the transition.

What are your idle parameters and ECT when you experience this drop out?
What does your desired idle table look like
MAP vs Timing
ECT modifiers for both fuel and ignition
At what point in your tune do you drop out all compensation regarding timing and spark.

What is your engines running temp
Do you run a thermostat

Tuning for mannerism is a challenge but not to bad once you understand the caveats/

You should call some time and we can discuss.


Originally Posted by Griswald
TunerTech - can you provide some definitions for these droop tables and what they actually do? These values are from my bin file mefi 4a

idle droop spark stabilizer: 0.18000 deg/rpm (once parameter is flagged, .18deg per revolution is subtracted or added?)
Max rpm droop allowed for spark stabilizer: 300 (rpm must drop 300 before spark stabilizer is flagged?)

DB2 Constant large droop/flare error delay time before correction step: .0313
DB1 Constant small droop/flare error delay time before correction step: .0313
DB0 Constant droop/flare delay time before correction steep is made : .0313

I've been trying to work around a shift into fwd myself. When the motor is warm it seems to shift in/out no problem. but when it's cold, I have to whack it a bit and take advantage of the vacuum to get it in gear or be real quick on the throttle and catch it before it dies. I have noticed on my O2 readings that i get a lean spike going into gear yet I can't seem to get around it in the fuel table.

Thoughts?

Last edited by tunertech; 07-27-2012 at 06:46 PM.
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Old 07-28-2012, 07:52 AM
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Originally Posted by tunertech

What is your engines running temp
Do you run a thermostat

.

No thermostat and motor typically does not run over 130deg.

It would be easier to send you my bin file and I appreciate the offer of a phone call. I will take you up on that.

Clark
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Old 07-28-2012, 01:27 PM
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Originally Posted by tunertech
DB stands for dead band It is all about transition without trying to get to technical. No time to write a book..

raise your "DB0" to .0625

raise your "step added to prevent stall" to 50. You may have to back it down if you get a little surge during the transition.

What are your idle parameters and ECT when you experience this drop out?
What does your desired idle table look like
MAP vs Timing
ECT modifiers for both fuel and ignition
At what point in your tune do you drop out all compensation regarding timing and spark.

What is your engines running temp
Do you run a thermostat

Tuning for mannerism is a challenge but not to bad once you understand the caveats/

You should call some time and we can discuss.
GREAT info, thanks!!!!!!!! All of us home mefi tuners learn from tghe bits and pieces mentioned ijn these threads, thanks again, I will be printing this off!!!
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Old 07-30-2012, 10:22 PM
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As posted earlier check IAC and if it is maxed out try to open throttle blades before drilling holes! Lots of good advise in this thread!
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