Is the mph correct for specs??
07-27-2012 | 09:19 AM
#81
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Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 3,648
Likes: 32
From: Oneida Lake NY
Just to clarify it's a 3 blade prop and I called a prop shop he thinks we are close enough to where it needs to be not to mess with it. For what it's worth he said the tech props are good props.
It was multiple test runs in multiple conditions it runs 58 consistant and like you said I feel it's good actual data. I might be new to boat stuff but I build race cars from ground up.
As far as issues go it had a serious electrical issue when I got the boat, I have since replaced 4 batteries, distributor cap, rotor, coil, wires ect.
It had an issue that was causing the fuel pressure to drop and pump to cut out at 3,000 rpm so I listened to what a few on here believed it to be an put 8 new injectors in it, that didn't fix it so I put a complete new cool fuel system and regulator on it which also didn't fix it. Ended up being the coil or the coil ground.
I still feel like there is an electrical issue and I'm sure it's a ground, any time you hit a switch or operation the voltage gauge jumps or drops if holding an operation it'll drop 2bolts on the gauge which does that mean its dropping 2 volts in actuality? No but that's what it shows, in my opinion it shouldn't move a mm as I have 4 batteries wired in that are used when battery selector is on all.
Is there a possibility that the alt is bad? Yes
Battery bad even though all are brand new? Yes
The wiring seems to be a common problem in boats as most are fiberglass so grounding can be tough. I generally replace his old connections daily and will continue too. Any splice or wire connection he used was not a weather tight connection nor brass or copper so a lot of them are corroded and breaking. I'm replacing correctly as I find them but I've made two boat trips one after 10 hours of driving where I spent the ENTIRE weekend FIXING the boat not enjoying. This is what I'm trying to avoid
It was multiple test runs in multiple conditions it runs 58 consistant and like you said I feel it's good actual data. I might be new to boat stuff but I build race cars from ground up.
As far as issues go it had a serious electrical issue when I got the boat, I have since replaced 4 batteries, distributor cap, rotor, coil, wires ect.
It had an issue that was causing the fuel pressure to drop and pump to cut out at 3,000 rpm so I listened to what a few on here believed it to be an put 8 new injectors in it, that didn't fix it so I put a complete new cool fuel system and regulator on it which also didn't fix it. Ended up being the coil or the coil ground.
I still feel like there is an electrical issue and I'm sure it's a ground, any time you hit a switch or operation the voltage gauge jumps or drops if holding an operation it'll drop 2bolts on the gauge which does that mean its dropping 2 volts in actuality? No but that's what it shows, in my opinion it shouldn't move a mm as I have 4 batteries wired in that are used when battery selector is on all.
Is there a possibility that the alt is bad? Yes
Battery bad even though all are brand new? Yes
The wiring seems to be a common problem in boats as most are fiberglass so grounding can be tough. I generally replace his old connections daily and will continue too. Any splice or wire connection he used was not a weather tight connection nor brass or copper so a lot of them are corroded and breaking. I'm replacing correctly as I find them but I've made two boat trips one after 10 hours of driving where I spent the ENTIRE weekend FIXING the boat not enjoying. This is what I'm trying to avoid
Sorry to hear of your issues. Have you checked the base and 3000 rpm timing? if you are turning a 20 oitch 3 blade you should be on the rev limiter. For the most part on a single of your size a 454 and 502 will run the same prob, not much diff in HP.
On a side note there is a 500EFI in the classifieds dressed and ready to go, with CMI headers for $10k. That engine will increase the value of your boat, get you the speed you want(should get 70 mph), run the drive you have, and you will have your old MPI to sell which will pull $5-6k in the spring
If it was me......
07-27-2012 | 09:21 AM
#82
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Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 3,648
Likes: 32
From: Oneida Lake NY
http://www.offshoreonly.com/classifi...o46758-en.html
will drop right in complete like it has been there all along. Do nada value of your current set up, then change to 470hp
Boats with stock blue engines pull much more money in the used market than aftermarket mods, and are easier to sell!
will drop right in complete like it has been there all along. Do nada value of your current set up, then change to 470hp
Boats with stock blue engines pull much more money in the used market than aftermarket mods, and are easier to sell!
07-27-2012 | 10:47 AM
#84
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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 4,400
Likes: 25
From: Michigan
Use a metal paper clip cut in half for a jumper to put it into service mode. I think it's A to B but not sure(written down at home) but you could do a search on here.
07-27-2012 | 10:47 AM
#85
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 809
Likes: 0
From: Rapid City SD
You don't need a scan tool to put it in to base timing mode, just a short piece of wire to short the 2 pins in the diagnostic port which is located by the ECU on the back port side (left) of the motor. I can't remember the 2 pins for sure, but think it is pin A & B. Someone know off the top of your head? Once in base timing mode, rev it to around 2000rpm and set your timing to what your manual says, some are different, but mine says 8deg. Last 454 I did I think was 6deg.
As far as your thoughts on electrical, you are not dropping 2 volts, but is at the dash gauge. Most boats do that and I agree that the electrical is marginal in most boats. If you check power with a digital meter at the motor, and alternator connections it is not dropping. Mine does the same thing and I hate it, but everything works fine. To fix it, I think the power leads to the dash should be 6ga to compensate for the drop in the line but most I have seen only are 10ga.
It sounds like you are getting everything you are going to get with the cuurent setup for speed and probably prop. It doesn't sound off to me, and I really like the 500efi, if it is an option because you can sell what you have, be turn key, increase resale value, and gain a lot.
As far as your thoughts on electrical, you are not dropping 2 volts, but is at the dash gauge. Most boats do that and I agree that the electrical is marginal in most boats. If you check power with a digital meter at the motor, and alternator connections it is not dropping. Mine does the same thing and I hate it, but everything works fine. To fix it, I think the power leads to the dash should be 6ga to compensate for the drop in the line but most I have seen only are 10ga.
It sounds like you are getting everything you are going to get with the cuurent setup for speed and probably prop. It doesn't sound off to me, and I really like the 500efi, if it is an option because you can sell what you have, be turn key, increase resale value, and gain a lot.
07-27-2012 | 11:36 AM
#90
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Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 362
Likes: 0
From: Fishers, IN
As others have said you don't need a scan tool but I would highly recommend getting one. They are about $400 from rinda and can save you a lot of time and money from just throwing parts at a problem. If you ever go to sell it you will have no problem getting $300 out of it used. Also, have you done a compression test?
