575sci's freshen and improve this winter
08-02-2012 | 08:58 AM
#11
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From: ankeny,ia.
with a high X and I didnt need to take any more weight out
of the back of the boat.
Originally, I was just doing doing the top ends, but
the heads had cracks by the exhaust seats, so that started
the ball rolling.
I'm running stock boost, no chillers....there's no room
for them and the "management" wont allow scoops.
I'm guesing they're in the 650 range.
Across the board, everything was better.
No more intermittent weird idling at 1700 rpm, no more black
smoke, no more sneezing, coughing and dying.
I't seems to accelerate harder and picked up 500 rpms
up top w/the same prop ( 32 maximus's)
08-02-2012 | 09:26 AM
#12
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From: Oneida Lake NY
I did Dart Iron Eagles...This is a straight bottom boat
with a high X and I didnt need to take any more weight out
of the back of the boat.
Originally, I was just doing doing the top ends, but
the heads had cracks by the exhaust seats, so that started
the ball rolling.
I'm running stock boost, no chillers....there's no room
for them and the "management" wont allow scoops.
I'm guesing they're in the 650 range.
Across the board, everything was better.
No more intermittent weird idling at 1700 rpm, no more black
smoke, no more sneezing, coughing and dying.
I't seems to accelerate harder and picked up 500 rpms
up top w/the same prop ( 32 maximus's)
with a high X and I didnt need to take any more weight out
of the back of the boat.
Originally, I was just doing doing the top ends, but
the heads had cracks by the exhaust seats, so that started
the ball rolling.
I'm running stock boost, no chillers....there's no room
for them and the "management" wont allow scoops.
I'm guesing they're in the 650 range.
Across the board, everything was better.
No more intermittent weird idling at 1700 rpm, no more black
smoke, no more sneezing, coughing and dying.
I't seems to accelerate harder and picked up 500 rpms
up top w/the same prop ( 32 maximus's)
Who did the ECU? was it custom dyno or on boat, or just an off the shelf map?
The coughing, high idle, smoke, back fires, all piss me off!
08-02-2012 | 09:28 AM
#13
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From: Oneida Lake NY
I recently did some of the same things.
Sent blowers off for rebuilds to DMPE - they are the best IMO.
Replaced flat tappet cam with all full hydraulic roller parts
Replaced heads with brand new, bigger, aluminum Brodix heads. Like someone said, by the time you port and buy all the parts for the stockers, you might as well have bought new ones.
Smaller pulleys to make up for lost boost (new heads flow better that you actually lose boost)
I didn't put intercoolers on mine, as I was already tapped out on $$$.
One thing that mine does have is, a lot of soot on the transom!! Very annoying sometimes.
Sent blowers off for rebuilds to DMPE - they are the best IMO.
Replaced flat tappet cam with all full hydraulic roller parts
Replaced heads with brand new, bigger, aluminum Brodix heads. Like someone said, by the time you port and buy all the parts for the stockers, you might as well have bought new ones.
Smaller pulleys to make up for lost boost (new heads flow better that you actually lose boost)
I didn't put intercoolers on mine, as I was already tapped out on $$$.
One thing that mine does have is, a lot of soot on the transom!! Very annoying sometimes.
Any parts kept from the stock heads? Rockers?
I have heard the alum heads also make for a cooler charge and reduce det risk, is this true?
08-02-2012 | 10:19 AM
#14
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From: ankeny,ia.
He's done quite a few 575 upgrades, so he supplied me with the heads, cams and reflashed the ECM's to one of his
tunes for that configuration.
08-02-2012 | 12:34 PM
#15
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From: Oneida Lake NY
12-08-2012 | 12:08 PM
#17
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From: On a Boat
Want some opinions, and hopefully some experts with experience. I have twin 575sci's with now about 45 hrs of run time on both, should have about 60 hrs by the end of the season.
They are 02's so head gaskets are a give in. They sat for a while so head work and valve springs are also a give in.
I have read to send the blowers to DPME for stripping and rebuilds, good idea or something better?
Should I chill them, or does it cause more problems? This thing will already load up fairly bad on long idles runs, hear chillers make it worse
I keep reading to change them cam to full roller, 525 grind...why?
The fuel burn off boost on these engines are terrible. Read a boat test on a 42 fountain with 525's got 1.3 mpg cruising, same boat with 575sci got .7 mpg cruising at similar RPM. I am seeign the same thing, they are terrible to cruise with....so I just run WOT
Anything that will address this?
What is the best single pump fuel system conversion out there? The stock system is complicated and I believe part of the fuel burn problem.
Who has the best ECU burn for this engine, or should I go custom after the mods?
I am not trying to shoot the moon, its just these engines are antiquainted and fuel burn is not on par with others. I want to make it reliable, and still appear to be a stock improved merc racing engine for resale. I will not remove EFI system
I am not against sending this engines out of my area if the builder can provide crates.
If you are a builder and have a complete package that works, but shipping is an issue I would be willing to buy the parts from you and have them installed local to help pay for the advise. But I want proof your formula works
Not looking to make 850hp drive breaking HP. Looking for a little edge, and improved reliable power that runs like it should.
If you think it is fine just the way they are I would like to hear why as well
They are 02's so head gaskets are a give in. They sat for a while so head work and valve springs are also a give in.
I have read to send the blowers to DPME for stripping and rebuilds, good idea or something better?
Should I chill them, or does it cause more problems? This thing will already load up fairly bad on long idles runs, hear chillers make it worse
I keep reading to change them cam to full roller, 525 grind...why?
The fuel burn off boost on these engines are terrible. Read a boat test on a 42 fountain with 525's got 1.3 mpg cruising, same boat with 575sci got .7 mpg cruising at similar RPM. I am seeign the same thing, they are terrible to cruise with....so I just run WOT
Anything that will address this? What is the best single pump fuel system conversion out there? The stock system is complicated and I believe part of the fuel burn problem.
Who has the best ECU burn for this engine, or should I go custom after the mods?
I am not trying to shoot the moon, its just these engines are antiquainted and fuel burn is not on par with others. I want to make it reliable, and still appear to be a stock improved merc racing engine for resale. I will not remove EFI system
I am not against sending this engines out of my area if the builder can provide crates.
If you are a builder and have a complete package that works, but shipping is an issue I would be willing to buy the parts from you and have them installed local to help pay for the advise. But I want proof your formula works
Not looking to make 850hp drive breaking HP. Looking for a little edge, and improved reliable power that runs like it should.
If you think it is fine just the way they are I would like to hear why as well
12-08-2012 | 12:46 PM
#18
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From: MI
Are your motors out of the boat?
Sorry...just rambling, bored at work and maybe you can use the info.
12-08-2012 | 01:05 PM
#19
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From: Oneida Lake NY
I feel the backfires can actually knock these little blowers out of time. I am sure you have probably read about the 871 upgrade to my boat. Have you considered just upgrading the blowers and adding coolers to start with? A 671 would be sufficient and not overly expensive. I was able to pull real good money out of my blue 256. I know Dyers has a package deal for the upgrading the 575 to 6/871...although I took a little different route. Even if you skipped the innercoolers the bigger blowers will drop your intake temp considerably. I am using a map from a guy that had an almost identical setup to mine (Steve Zuckerman). I am now running slightly overdriven, 9.5lbs of boost, no high idle and no soot on transom. I can cruise pretty efficiently at 70mph when it airs out well. If you have good leakdown you wouldnt have to go intenal to improve your performance and drivability...unless you are pulling the heads to upgrade the **** gaskets.
Are your motors out of the boat?
Sorry...just rambling, bored at work and maybe you can use the info.
Are your motors out of the boat?
Sorry...just rambling, bored at work and maybe you can use the info.
I have a had a few backfires, and yes it scares me even though I have been told these are the "better blowers". My plan is to have them rebuilt and just run the chillers, keep in mind the used, perfect, fresh water chillers only cost me $1500 with plumbing
Yes the head gaskets are being replaced, along with the valve springs. The builder wants to use a felpro mls gasket, vs the cometic that many recommend on here....any problem with that?
Also does any know the isky spring and retainer number using the stock cam?
And, last but not least. After a few great recommendations from people I trust I think I am going with the ASM 575sci pulley, msd, ecu mod kit. I have heard great things. Let me hear your thoughts?
Last edited by 4bus; 12-08-2012 at 01:09 PM.
12-08-2012 | 01:10 PM
#20
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From: Oneida Lake NY
