That is the one Marc at BAM sent me (being delivered today)
I had gotten the old ones with the orange line on it from the local marina last week and they looked like they had sat on the shelf for about 9 years
From what I hear these silver gaskets crush down when torquing the riser/elbows down and conform to the surfaces better than the older ones with the orange lines on them.
The bulletin states 33 ft lbs on each bolt (god knows how to get a torque wrench into the back 2 bolts though???)
Ill have to get some free time and get the manifolds and risers cleaned, check for level surfaces with straight edge and feeler gagues and take it from there.
this SUCKS ASS!
Jason

I have often thot about adding NOS to the 6 hp Suzuki on the Zodiac, it does 18 mph @ 5000 right now, gonna change to a bravo 1, 4 blade, thinking I could get 25 out of it maybe

Jason,

I too have the merc ss risers. This may not be right but this is what I do:

I use a 1/2 drive u-joint socket snap on that will torue the back two with no problem. It is the type that the socket is built into the u-joint.

I use ss hardware bolts washers and lock washers. I torque to 30 ft lbs and check that the lock washers are compressed.

I do use permatex super black.

I do not use the barr type gray aftermarket gaskets. I beleive with heat these gaskets will burn up and cause water to leak into your motor. I believe cheap gaskets that burn up with heat are a leading source of engine failure.

I buy the best high temp gaskets I can find.

Unfortunally i have had my risers off many times. With good gaskets and a good seal it is really hard to seperate the risers from the exhaust manifold.

Good luck

And dont forget flat tappet cam break-in rules, no idle time, 2000-2500 rpm for a half hour. Seems like lots of people did-in cams this spring. Good Luck.

Yeah... what formula31 said. Sometimes hard to achieve +2k rpm when trying to get things going... but very inportant to get the valves moving and lubricated. Otherwise... new cam gone. You didn't let either engine idle yet did you Jay?

BT

Jay if you use the universal type sockets your torque numbers will be a little off. I would say add about another 5 pounds on the ones with the universal.

Jon

set torque is equal to distance from center of drive socket to center of TW handle....the add any deflection forward of the center or minus of the center of the drive. so ST=fastner torque/TW distance (+- deflection) *TW distance....so adding an extension 90 deg in any plane will not change toque...any other deflections will. any questions??? just ask...i just had to write tranning and global G8D on this topic! so.....don't worrie about it! LOL

Okay Kudo's to Marc at BAM for getting me this stuff that is probably next to impossible to get.
All the new bolts have loc tite on them, the new gaskets are like thick mushy recycled metal, very soft and shiny.
Now I see how these gaskets can conform to the surface of the manifold and seal properly in comparison to the old gaskets with the orange stripes on them and the fire ring in the middle.
I think I can get a torque wrench on the back bolts with a universal so Ill just add a bit of pressure and take them up to about 35-36 Ft/Lbs instead of the mercury recommended 33 to compensate for the universal swivel sockets.
I get what Joe is saying on this verbage but how can you compensate for something that can continuously move like the swivel sockets?
going looser = problem
going too tight = problem
going 2-3 ft lbs over to compensate for swivel socket = probably right no way to tell for sure.
Anyway, Like I said I can see how these gaskets will work out just fine.
So now lets see if we can get this all done tonight and tomorrow morning and get this bizatch in the water on Sunday SUNDAY SUNDAYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYY
Stay tuned for further developments
Now back to you .................................................

i use ANTISLIZE....not loctite....**** i've had to heli-coil studs in the past...always use antislize on any exhaust system bro!..ps...any time u use a lub/anti friction substance or clamping focre is increase as is intimate contact with the same bolt torque! ummmmm joe knows fastners!!!LOL

Corrected torque depends on the angle of offset from straight on with the torque wrench. For any angle of offset of the socket extension, the corrected torque will be large than the straight torque by the factor of 1/cosine theta where theta is the angle of offset. For angles of 10 or 15 degrees the correction is not that big. The biggest factor is the type of thread lubricant you have as you torque them down. Probably torque to only 75% with Neversieze on the thread. Best to draw down bolts progressively and criss cross pattern or something recommended by mfgr. Then go back and retorque after the gaskets have settled down after first warm up of engine.