Inter Cooler Horsepower increase
#11
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Correct , no pulley change. What I'm sayin is the 25hp gain woulda have been smaller if you didn't have the core obstructing airflow thu the manifold.
I personally wouldn't mind seeing these 100hp claims from adding chillers backed up with some proof. For example, a typical summer day on a inland lake. 90* air temp, 80* water temp flowing thru the chiller. Sustained wot, where the core itself is subjected to the heat of the compressor( unlike a dyno pull) . I'd like to see the IAT temps. It would also be cool to see the difference of power output of say a small highly overdriven roots setup, and a large under driven roots setup.
I personally wouldn't mind seeing these 100hp claims from adding chillers backed up with some proof. For example, a typical summer day on a inland lake. 90* air temp, 80* water temp flowing thru the chiller. Sustained wot, where the core itself is subjected to the heat of the compressor( unlike a dyno pull) . I'd like to see the IAT temps. It would also be cool to see the difference of power output of say a small highly overdriven roots setup, and a large under driven roots setup.
#13
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: Eaton Rapids,Mi
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I was just on Wallace Racing website using the boost calculator and figured out that i should gain 34 hp per additional pound of boost which should give me an additional 68 hp by installing coolers. You gain 2 pounds of boost with chillers by using a smaller blower pully to maintain the 8 pounds of boost i already have , not to mention a couple more degrees of timing i can run. I will let you know how this works as i am going to add the chillers this winter and test next spring. I should be over 100 mph anytime, i want and still run 93 octane, thats the goal! As far as my Bravo One drives are concerned i want to see the speed first and buy Imco's if it works. I've been running these drives for 12 years with 700 plus hp all this time with minimal problems. I just make sure the drives stay in the water at all times and avoid jumping out of the water. Going in and out of the water and putting a huge load on the drives when the props get back in the water at speeds seem to be what tears them up. I've had quite a bit of experience doing this with too much hp ahead of Bravo drives and the cone clutches seem to be the biggest problem. Oh well i'm going to try!!!
#14
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You don't gain 2psi from installing chillers. If your at 8psi now, and you bolt chillers on, you will probably be at 6-7psi manifold pressure. Yes, a smaller pulley is needed to get back to your original 8psi, because of the restriction of the core and denser charge.
To gain the power you mentioned(68hp), I think you will need a even smaller pulley, so you see 10psi of manifold pressure.
What are your current pulley sizes? Top and bottom pulleys
To gain the power you mentioned(68hp), I think you will need a even smaller pulley, so you see 10psi of manifold pressure.
What are your current pulley sizes? Top and bottom pulleys
#15
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I believe my current pully sizes are 6.25 lower and 5.75 upper, I have a set of 5.4s which should put me right back to 8lbs after I put the coolers on. I will run 110 gas and see where I end up without causing damage.
#17
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If we are placing bets I have $2 you will go faster no chillers and the 5.4" pulleys on 110 than 5.4's w/ chillers. This would be great real world testing.
#19
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I'm thinking I will change the pullies to the 5.4 add 110 fuel and take a test ride yet this fall. If it works i can add the coolers this winter and already know about where I will be without adding timing. Just want to run 93 all the time and go over 100 anytime but this would be a good test! Try before I buy!!!!!