will this drain the whole block? BBC
10-10-2012, 02:27 PM
#11
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why for the life of me do i see these same questions year after year?you spend a small fortune on your boat,then want to winterize it yourself without any knowledge of how to do it correctly..then you ask people on the internet that you dont know how to do it.spend the small amount of money with a reputable shop to do it right,if they dont ,there insurance will take care of the problem..your insurance as a boat owner will NOT cover freeze damage jus tmy 2 cents....
10-10-2012, 06:51 PM
#12
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Don't remove the headers. Borrow the 10 year old neighbor kid and show him what to do. You'd be amazed how well they fit in there! (Yes, I have had to stoop to this.)
And as has already been said, pulling the plug on one side will not drain all the water out of the block.
And as has already been said, pulling the plug on one side will not drain all the water out of the block.
10-10-2012, 06:54 PM
#13
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Any reputable marina will cover freeze damage to a boat they winterize. How do we prevent somebody from running the boat after it's winterized? Most of us remove all of the plugs and place them in a bag tied to the steering wheel. We then attach a tag stating that the engine has been winterized / disabled and it must not be run until a qualified marine mechanic has replaced all of the plugs and hoses. If you try to start the thing, all you'll get it a shower.
10-10-2012, 06:58 PM
#14
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Location: Olmsted Falls,Ohio Marblehead,Oh
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I agree that it is frustrating this time of year, the winterization and upgrade questions....however, if they are going to learn they have to start somewhere right? We all did.
BTW, I know of two people that have winterized improperly, and were both covered by insurance. One was a 3 year old formula. Insurance does cover stupidity
BTW, I know of two people that have winterized improperly, and were both covered by insurance. One was a 3 year old formula. Insurance does cover stupidity
10-10-2012, 07:26 PM
#15
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I took my shop vac and vacuumed the hoses dry as well then filled them with Anti freeze. you cant be sitting up worrying when its 20 below. took one sea pump home, took out the thermostats, changed the oil, new filters everywhere and I may pull the drives and spruce them up in a nice heated environment. Shrink wrap and plane tickets next. see ya in the spring !
10-10-2012, 07:39 PM
#16
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Not a bad idea huh? The underwriters are smarter than you think however. My friend that cracked both blocks, the insurance had the dealer tear down both engines for internal inspection, also took them til mid July to pay out and get the boat going again after it was discovered in may
10-10-2012, 08:01 PM
#17
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Not a bad idea huh? The underwriters are smarter than you think however. My friend that cracked both blocks, the insurance had the dealer tear down both engines for internal inspection, also took them til mid July to pay out and get the boat going again after it was discovered in may
10-10-2012, 08:33 PM
#18
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If the front of the motor is easily accessable you can pull off the circulating pump (4 bolts) or crossover and feed a piece of small plastic tubing down through the holes to the bottom of the jackets and siphon it out. Then put the pump/crossover back on, remove the thermostat housing and fill to the top with 50/50 antifreeze mix. Done.
10-11-2012, 06:22 PM
#19
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Any reputable marina will cover freeze damage to a boat they winterize. How do we prevent somebody from running the boat after it's winterized? Most of us remove all of the plugs and place them in a bag tied to the steering wheel. We then attach a tag stating that the engine has been winterized / disabled and it must not be run until a qualified marine mechanic has replaced all of the plugs and hoses. If you try to start the thing, all you'll get it a shower.
10-12-2012, 03:15 PM
#20
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I can't figure out why boat manufacturers don't think of this when building boats. Part of building a good boat ought to include remote drains and flush fittings. Also oil drain hoses should be standard equipment. A few cheap parts could increase owners enjoyment of their product. On my ski nautique, I take the time to install brass valves in all the drains(save the knock sensor.). I can turn the valves and drain the block in less than a minute.
In a tight twin you could put a brass nipple fitting in the block and run a rubber hose to a valve drain. Would be well worth a few minutes to do it.
In a tight twin you could put a brass nipple fitting in the block and run a rubber hose to a valve drain. Would be well worth a few minutes to do it.
