Love these

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000P0...0328010&sr=8-5

I guess those Polk speakers are ok to get wet? Also I have a pair of old school Precision Power 10" subs. I have never heard these as they were given to me but they are extremely heavy when compared to my 10" JL Audio, probably 20 lbs different. How good are these subs and any idea on what air space ported box I would need? These speakers are deeper than a regular 10" speaker, they are probably 7-8" deep.

I had a similar experience with an install for a friend, the amp wouldn't run 4 pairs of mids at 2 ohms without tripping, we had to wire back I series to get it to work, then the sound quality at higher levels was terrible.

Pretty much any newer speaker is okay to get wet.

Ported is definitely the way to go for the loudest bass, problem is that boats don't usually have enough room. My box for my 2 12"s takes up nearly half my back seat and it is sealed. However, that isn't to say it doesn't make ridiculous bass. The water ripples from my hull to give you an idea. Sealed is pretty damn bad ass.

Yep, mirror image of my problem :) I did run a fan on it for a while and that worked fairly well, it just looked beyond ghetto.

The Polk db line is marine rated, like captain said most of today's speakers are at marine standards anyway, but those are true marine rated.

Those precision power subs were pretty awesome back in the day, the size of a Jl w7 series. Find the model number and I am sure you can find the specs for enclosure on the web. Keep in mind when using subs of that size you have to deduct the size of the sub from the encolsure when designing a box. Some of them are near .25 cu ft.

Well, I will wait and see how mine works out. Did you guys have 0 guage wire running it too? Maybe they were a bad batch of them? I DO read a lot of good reviews on them...

|Its like my sled I bought last year, 2012 Arctic Cat turbo: I go onto a sled website, guys are saying theyre garbage, going through belts like mad, etc. Meanwhile I rod the crap out of it, have it boosted and studded and original belt at 5000 miles.

You always hear from the 5% of ppl who have issues, but not the 95% of ppl with no problems.

Wonder if amps are the same way? lol

Hello guys, if u have the budget , get a jl 1000/1 that will have plnety of power to move e kicker subs ( both subs ), as far as the wiring i will run a isolator and intall one batery only for the amps, i will run a 4 gauge wire lead from the main baterry. The reason of the jl audio is that they have a samr mosfet power supply that allows the amp to produce all the power all the time, so you dont need a cap, most if not all amp will have diferent rating on the power output that varies in twi things, one the impedance ( jl produce the same amount of power from 1-4 ohms) and second the voltage, for example if you have a rockford amp rated at 1000 watts, it will be at 2 ohns and 14 v when the voltage drops the power goes to something like 800 at 13 and maybe 700 or so at 12.5, the problem stars when the bas stars hitting and the voltage starts to go down. That will also make the amp to work harder and get into to overheat mode or protect mode, the jl is by FAR the most eficient amp you can buy, they have a real comparison as far as cost of wats per dollar. The mids adn high are just as important since most of the disortion you will hear will come from the mids and highs, you can have a fully distorted sub and some clean mids and higs and have good sound but clean bass and no high will kill many roaches.... Aqua vibe makes a universal rf not ir remote that wokrs 100' from the bost, is water prof and it floats, i had 3 boats over the las 4 years and alway had one, very usefull and only 70$ , get a set of components or coaxial, mount the tweeters as close to mids as posible, or use high en coaxial speakers and aditional tweters. We used 2 jl 13w3 new style and 1000/1 and my boat was by far the best sounding boat in the whole sandbar, i would not sweat the marine part of the elctronics, they last just as long most cases on todays technology, back in the days when soeakers were made out of oaoer and foam .. But today most if not al are poly and rubber, just my personal experience, im sure there is a bunch of products out there that work really god for a good deal, but take in consideracion the jl amp capability. Customer support is key also.... If you get the enclousure done, get it covered inside with epoxy, inside and out, it will sound really good plus last longer, make sure you dont use silicone on the boxes since there is a chemichal that will eat some of the glue that holds together the sub.

Car audio is the opposite IMO. People will cob, cram, duct tape whatever and think they have good sound :)

I was always a fan of mb quart, however they used to be a highline product that was more expensive than the norm.

My bias against them is not what I read, or heard, it was what I experienced. I spent three times as much time as I wanted to diagnosing why the stereo I installed sounded like crap, never even knowing what the price was on the mb quart stuff he purchased.
And I always use 0 gauge on boat installs, the long runs alone make in mandatory.

The square onyx subs were the worst I have ever seen. They have clock radio speaker magnets on them haha

He lost money "trying" the line, and is very happy with the replacements. Kicker components, solo l5 12s, and sounstream amps, all on the same exact wiring we used for the quart. He says the stereo is 3 times as loud and clear, I don't think it is that extreme but definitely a diff class now.

I

I wish mb quRt today are what they used to be 8 years or so ago, i still have 2 pairs of q series mb quart that i purchased and my lukc that the las 4 veicles i have owned they fit 6.5 oversize components, that is in my truck off course. Good luck, i agree, ther is a diference bewtweeen the equipment that goes boom and that sounds good¡