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Originally Posted by HaxbySpeed
(Post 3802916)
Procharged engines are very sensitive to overly rich conditions and will simply not accelerate if too fat. Because the boost curve is more exponential then linear if you can't accelerate you can't build more boost and the engine will get stuck or be really, really sluggish gaining rpm. It's very difficult to get a blow thru carb deal tuned throughout the entire curve. There's so much signal to the boosters because of the velocity that you'll often have an overly rich condition when cruising, or too lean on top if you get your cruise nice and clean. I would highly recommend to anyone running a procharged deal over 1000hp to go with EFI. Not only will it perform waay better it gives you a ton more safety. To make a true 1300hp in a procharged 522 @ 15lbs you're gonna be turning about 7000rpm and burning enough fuel to support around 1600hp. That's a chit ton of fuel to pass through a needle and seat. If you're gonna run hard at that power level you need bigger bowls with dual needle and seats and even then there's a risk of starvation or other issues when you start pounding through the waves. I've converted a few carb'd to EFI and there is absolutely no comparison! We went up four prop sizes on one with no other changes. Save yourself a bunch of money, time, wear on your engine, and frustration and just switch to EFI now. You'll have better dock manners, performance, and you can throw in some knock sensors and other safety measures to help protect your investment.
What you say makes total sense about the EFI!! Ive always been a cheerleader for carbs, mainly on roots stuff, and N/A, just because its simple, and Im stupid! However, there really isnt anything simple about a blow thru carb setup, learning that pretty fast! At this point, maybe he needs to look into EFI, rather than spending the dough on some new exhaust. Maybe a little less cam duration. It probably be sooooo much more user friendly, and safer. |
joe.are the inner cooles force fed from lwp or from the engine? also 2 idle if the carbs are too cool the idle will suck..
BTW if he ic comparing his boat to mikes then it will never accelerate....tell him to put # 6's on his boat and then take it for a ride.. |
fixx,the innercooler is fed from engine cooling water,if its running,cooler is getting fed.btw,3.13 am,dont you ever sleep?
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fixx
Originally Posted by mike tkach
(Post 3803212)
fixx,the innercooler is fed from engine cooling water,if its running,cooler is getting fed.btw,3.13 am,dont you ever sleep?
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i think efi will cure all the problems.
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Originally Posted by mrfixxall
(Post 3803633)
theirs part of his problem,,if he lets the coolers warm up a little by using low water pick up feeding the coolers they will warn up a bit so the holleys are not so cool when docking..you knoe how cold harted holleys are lol...Btw ill get plenty of sleep when im 6'under..:lolhit:
I think I mentioned trying disconnecting the water supply from the chiller and plugging it just to see if it helps at idle. I dont believe Tunnelvision tried that. I know it didnt seem to make a difference at idle on the dyno when turning the water off, but the motor also wasnt loaded at idle on the dyno, like when in gear in the boat. I agree, I think EFI would be money well spent on this setup. |
Originally Posted by mrfixxall
(Post 3803633)
theirs part of his problem,,if he lets the coolers warm up a little by using low water pick up feeding the coolers they will warn up a bit so the holleys are not so cool when docking..you knoe how cold harted holleys are lol...Btw ill get plenty of sleep when im 6'under..:lolhit:
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are you sure they are not leaking and its drowning the engine with water?? First thing i would do is pressure test the coolers who knows maybe thats why the afr's were off also..
Joe,then have the crank and charger pully notched abd add the extra support on the brack so it dont bend whyle in boost mode and drill the plate and add the pullys we talked about.. |
I have to agree with Haxor. He pretty much nailed it on the head. If that engine had a 5L Whipple, it would be making about 12 psi of boost at 3500 when loaded that hard on the dyno. Plus, it would have had about 300 more ft lbs of torque at that rpm.
I spoke with Mike today for quite a while. While we were on the phone, I pulled out a dyno sheet from the 598's w/ 5 L Whipples to compare the numbers. Mine made 1291 hp at 6100 rpm with 10.9 psi boost. They made almost 9 psi boost at 3500 when the pull started. They made over 1100 ft lbs the entire pull, from 3500-6100. At no point did it go below 1100 ft lbs. Peak torque was at 4500 at almost 1200 ft lbs. I mention all of this because it all goes back to the root problem. The engine isn't making any torque down low, primarily because it isn't making any boost. Add an overly rich condition, a cam that may or may not be correct for a Procharged app and you end up with a lazy bottom end. I would bet that the smaller exhaust is probably helping a little with the bottom end right now. If you were to put larger, better flowing exhaust on it now, the getting on plane issue would be worse. I am by no means an expert at blow through carb setups. As a matter of fact, if someone would have come to me wanting that exact engine, I don't think I would do it. I would only do it in efi at that power level. Converting it to efi would be the best move to make at this point. I don't know that it will solve all of the problems, but it sure will help. The X dim. sounds like it's pretty low. After Mike gave me the rundown of the height changes, I think it is also a big part of the problem. When the boat was built in '96, they were pretty conservative with drive placement. The boat would probably really take to a set of SCX -4's. It only money:lolhit: It was really good talking with you Mike. Give me a shout if I can help. Eddie |
eddie,you spoke with joe today[tunnelvision3100],he was going to call me and put the 3 of us on a conference call,but i guess he forgot about me.
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