![]() |
What is the quench distance? Are you at zero deck? negative deck? Makes a big difference when your putting timing in a motor. Also, piston to wall is a little tight but doesnt look like that was your issue. Detonation will open up the ring lands and you will loose your lubrication on the pistons. It will also take the molly right off the top ring as soon as it detonates. should run a tooled steel top ring in a boosted motor it's worth the extra money. I've put timing in boosted motors without any issue but I've always payed attention to the quench area. Guys that are slamming motors out the door usually don't do this cause it takes extra time...
|
Not sure on the quench I'll have to check upon reassembly, the rings and ring lands look fine.
Maybe I just don't want to believe it, but I've run a lot of big power motors, granted not many in boats, but there are no signs of detonation anywhere on these. I've detonated pistons into a million pieces, and I've made some last that should have blown up right away. How could it have beat the wrist pin bore out of the piston without a single sign on the plugs, bearings or domes?? |
the pics of the bearings don't look good to me...now might just be them on my end...also, not sure if merc does anything diff on a HP500 oil lines, but std 502 stuff is junk, search here couple or great articles, but line ends, fittings etc are terrible, are you running a oil temp gauge ??? need to with a blower set-up, also did you have any carb flooding/super rich ?? does not take much fuel in the oil to cause issues like these...I can tell you that from experience on a small blower engine I killed a few years ago....
|
I'll search about the oil lines, but in person the bearings look fine, except for a couple score lines like I said.
|
Originally Posted by Black Baja
(Post 3829003)
What is the quench distance? Are you at zero deck? negative deck? Makes a big difference when your putting timing in a motor. Also, piston to wall is a little tight but doesnt look like that was your issue. Detonation will open up the ring lands and you will loose your lubrication on the pistons. It will also take the molly right off the top ring as soon as it detonates. should run a tooled steel top ring in a boosted motor it's worth the extra money. I've put timing in boosted motors without any issue but I've always payed attention to the quench area. Guys that are slamming motors out the door usually don't do this cause it takes extra time...
|
opinions are like a$$holes... everyone has one!!!:eekdrop:
|
Originally Posted by adk61
(Post 3830006)
seems like the quench issue is taking OSO by storm.. lol what's your opinion on this? where do you run a boosted engine?
I keep .010" on block deck for future deck squaring and use .040" head gasket. |
Originally Posted by adk61
(Post 3830008)
opinions are like a$$holes... everyone has one!!!:eekdrop:
|
Originally Posted by Young Performance
(Post 3830041)
And they all stink:lolhit:
|
Originally Posted by Villian III
(Post 3828726)
Tight wrist pins would cause the skirt to skuff, piston could not rock freely and would cause side load on them. If you had deonation to the point of knocking a wrist pin hole out of round the upper rod bearing would show copper. Post pics of the rod bearings. sound like poor machine work, and bad assymbly. Side clearance sounds a little tight for a boosted motor, but the piston manufactuer would have the determaining specs for their product.
|
| All times are GMT -5. The time now is 02:19 AM. |
Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.