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Old 03-24-2013, 10:16 PM
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UltraDyne Solid Roller 252/264 0.632"IN (0.669" 1.8 rockers) /0.632"EX
This is an old cam that has hundreds of hours on it so I am not surprised, it owes me nothing.
I was on borrowed time. That's clean living right there!
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Old 03-24-2013, 10:53 PM
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I cc'd a new head and it came out to be 122cc.
JimV did a little work to my chambers to get more flow out of my exhaust and cleaned up the chamber. After cc'ing this head with the chambers worked a little they come up to 129cc's.

Here is a pic of a new chamber vs my touched up chamber. Jim said that this is the chamber volume he has done on hundreds of heads blown or N/A and I will not have any issues.

And by the compression calculator I will now be 9.04:1 without adding in the bore notch cc so I am where I want to be.
Attached Thumbnails Preparing for SuperChargers-chamber.jpg   Preparing for SuperChargers-compression.jpg  
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Old 03-25-2013, 09:51 AM
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Personally I'd tighten up the quench and if the bore is notched think about maybe needing a larger diameter head gasket. I didn't reread the whole thread so if this was already discussed....nevermind.
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Old 03-25-2013, 12:20 PM
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Blue your saying that cause the piston is down in the hole 0.014" right? I would be at a net quench of 0.055"
I do remember the discussions on the quench thread from earlier.
With my steel Merlin heads I did run 4.540" bore head gaskets

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Old 03-25-2013, 01:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Rookie
Blue your saying that cause the piston is down in the hole 0.014" right? I would be at a net quench of 0.055"
I do remember the discussions on the quench thread from earlier.
With my steel Merlin heads I did run 4.540" bore head gaskets
Yes, I was looking at your calculator inputs and saw the deck height plus gasket thickness was rather high for my tastes. I also thought the 4.37 was too snug for a bore notched 4.32" bore. Either of those are debatable depending who you ask, they are just my thoughts.
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Old 03-25-2013, 04:04 PM
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Originally Posted by blue thunder
Thats the buttons I use. You can take them apart at the snap ring and surface grind/turn the fat end to get the clearance/cam play right where you like it. The bearing wear is from debris of some sort, probably not the right stuff but a dirty cooler or a small amount of metal in the galleys. You might cut apart the oil filter to get a better look but all in all no worries too big there in my estimation.
There are a couple of different lengths buttons and the one they list for small blocks is shorter but the same dia. You can also put a shim between the button and the end of the cam for more adjustment options.
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Old 03-25-2013, 06:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Rookie
Where do you dyno and how much $$$ to dyno? I have a truck and time, just not a ton of $$$.
We use Tom Earhart , Tyler Crocket and Dave Wessledyke. All very good with marine set ups.
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Old 05-17-2013, 10:58 PM
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It's been a while since this thread has been updated. Finally parts started to show up to the door. My rebuilt Isky Red Zone solid lifters arrived a few weeks ago. My knock modules and knock sensors arrived last week. And finally my new cams and gears arrived yesterday!
I'm going spend the weekend putting a couple engines back together!!!
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Last edited by Rookie; 05-17-2013 at 11:02 PM.
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