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kakarot 01-21-2013 11:27 AM

This manifolds have no way to pressurize them..

kakarot 01-21-2013 12:34 PM

Here where the water comes out of the manifold there's no way to plug them

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...psf97ddd26.jpg

blue thunder 01-21-2013 02:34 PM


Originally Posted by riverrat (Post 3852617)
go easy on the city water pressure so you don't blow them beautys totally apart, we use a gauge and put 7 lbs thru as our well kicks out 60 lbs. sounds like he dodged a bullet with the good comp #s time for a oil change and a new set of headers .
Jeff A.

You trying to pick a fight? :party-smiley-004: JK of course...

My KEs have held city water with thier thin walled cast aluminum. I will say I was a bit nervous the first time I did it but no problem. My thought is headers may need a good amount of pressure to show a leak cold as they may only leak when hot.

If you cannot figure out how to plug your exhaust then I'd surely try to get a pressure test on the cooling system of the engine. Without knowing either the engine tests tight or the manifolds leak you are just guessing it will be fixed.

Budman II 01-22-2013 06:23 AM


Originally Posted by kakarot (Post 3852678)
Here where the water comes out of the manifold there's no way to plug them

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...psf97ddd26.jpg

It might be easier to pressureize the exhaust side instead of the water side. You can get a good, flat, heavy piece of wood or even better, a piece of flat steel plate, and lay a header gasket against it to mark where the bolt holes would be. Drill out the holes, get a set of header bolts and 3/8" nuts for the back side, and bolt the header or manifold to the plate with a good header gasket (a piece of flat rubber would work well as a seat too). On the other end where the exhaust exits, install one of those 4-inch rubber plumbers plugs that snug up with a bolt or wing nut. A little lithium grease helps with a seal here. Then drill and install a schrader valve in one of the exhaust ports on your flat stock jig, pressurize with air, and listen for leaks. You can put a tire gauge on it to note the pressure, and let it sit overnight to see if it holds. A little bit of soapy water around the flange and plug will tell you if you are leaking air in those areas if it does not hold air.

Worked for me to test my Lightnings!

blue thunder 01-22-2013 06:30 AM


Originally Posted by Budman II (Post 3853080)
It might be easier to pressureize the exhaust side instead of the water side. You can get a good, flat, heavy piece of wood or even better, a piece of flat steel plate, and lay a header gasket against it to mark where the bolt holes would be. Drill out the holes, get a set of header bolts and 3/8" nuts for the back side, and bolt the header or manifold to the plate with a good header gasket (a piece of flat rubber would work well as a seat too). On the other end where the exhaust exits, install one of those 4-inch rubber plumbers plugs that snug up with a bolt or wing nut. A little lithium grease helps with a seal here. Then drill and install a schrader valve in one of the exhaust ports on your flat stock jig, pressurize with air, and listen for leaks. You can put a tire gauge on it to note the pressure, and let it sit overnight to see if it holds. A little bit of soapy water around the flange and plug will tell you if you are leaking air in those areas if it does not hold air.

Worked for me to test my Lightnings!

I've done this before too. The way I used to see if there was air leaking was I put duct tape over the exhaust runners that bolt to the head. Any air leaking at all would presuurize/blow up the duct tape. If the tape stays limp over the exhaust openings you have no leak.

kakarot 01-22-2013 08:46 PM

I took the manifolds connected the hose and as the water was coming out of the ports that it meets the exhaust part the water kind of repels back down the exhaust
Part the spraying pattern causes it to create water reversion


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