How to test manifolds
#23
Registered
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 3,385
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'd pressure test the manifolds for confirmation. To do that plumb city water to an inlet nipple, plug any outlet ports. Then turn on the water and watch for water to appear in the exhaust gas section of the manifold. It will be obvious if they are leakers.
#24
Registered
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Oxford, fla
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
plug all the water ports, leave one to install a guage and a shrader valve like on a tire you can add water to the manifold just a little so you can see water pressureize with air and watch the guage with air pressure a leak is more to show up because the heat expands any crack while the engine is running, good luck had the same problem with a set it was spraying water on the exhaust valve and bending it only way i found it was with air pressure aprox 13 lbs should do it.....
#26
Registered
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 155
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Here where the water comes out of the manifold there's no way to plug them
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...psf97ddd26.jpg
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...psf97ddd26.jpg
#27
Registered
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 3,385
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
My KEs have held city water with thier thin walled cast aluminum. I will say I was a bit nervous the first time I did it but no problem. My thought is headers may need a good amount of pressure to show a leak cold as they may only leak when hot.
If you cannot figure out how to plug your exhaust then I'd surely try to get a pressure test on the cooling system of the engine. Without knowing either the engine tests tight or the manifolds leak you are just guessing it will be fixed.
#28
Here where the water comes out of the manifold there's no way to plug them
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...psf97ddd26.jpg
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...psf97ddd26.jpg
Worked for me to test my Lightnings!
#29
Registered
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 3,385
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
It might be easier to pressureize the exhaust side instead of the water side. You can get a good, flat, heavy piece of wood or even better, a piece of flat steel plate, and lay a header gasket against it to mark where the bolt holes would be. Drill out the holes, get a set of header bolts and 3/8" nuts for the back side, and bolt the header or manifold to the plate with a good header gasket (a piece of flat rubber would work well as a seat too). On the other end where the exhaust exits, install one of those 4-inch rubber plumbers plugs that snug up with a bolt or wing nut. A little lithium grease helps with a seal here. Then drill and install a schrader valve in one of the exhaust ports on your flat stock jig, pressurize with air, and listen for leaks. You can put a tire gauge on it to note the pressure, and let it sit overnight to see if it holds. A little bit of soapy water around the flange and plug will tell you if you are leaking air in those areas if it does not hold air.
Worked for me to test my Lightnings!
Worked for me to test my Lightnings!
#30
Registered
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 155
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I took the manifolds connected the hose and as the water was coming out of the ports that it meets the exhaust part the water kind of repels back down the exhaust
Part the spraying pattern causes it to create water reversion
Part the spraying pattern causes it to create water reversion