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-   -   What thread is a knock sensor? (https://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/general-q/292904-what-thread-knock-sensor.html)

FIXX 03-14-2013 12:19 AM

fixx
 

Originally Posted by Strip Poker 388 (Post 3885460)
I dont recall one under the head,I allways got it from Merc, maybe a non merc is diff? Ill look again

Rob

how come you didn't get the steel main caps?

lakematdude 03-14-2013 12:24 AM


Originally Posted by Strip Poker 388 (Post 3885423)
I really dont want to put it in the drain, Every time I rebuild the engine I remove the knock sensor and the built in nut spins and rounds off, have to use channel locks it remove, maybe im screwing it in to tight, but I assume its bad after it spins.

Knock sensors are very sensitive, It is very important that the knock sensor be torqued to the exact specification. Incorrect torquing will result in unsatisfactory performance.
Do not use sealer on threads.
Install knock sensor in engine block. Torque to 12-16 lb. ft. (16.3-21.7 N·m).

Depending on the old engine application the knock system came off of, You might be able to install the knock sensor in the upper location on a Y-fitting to use as a block drain as well for winter time.
Merc part number 22-8067051, Item #12,
http://www.mercruiserparts.com/Show_...rs+and+Sensors

See page 4B-22 for the idea,
http://www.boatfix.com/merc/Servmanl/16/16B4R2.PDF

mike tkach 03-14-2013 08:58 AM


Originally Posted by compedgemarine (Post 3885351)
on every ski boat with efi that I have worked on the knock sensor was screwed into the drain hole on the side of the block. they all came that way from the engine builders.

well i stand corrected,you learn something every day on oso.

snapmorgan 03-14-2013 10:03 AM

The last engine I built, I retapped the threads on the knock sensor to 1/2x13 and screwed it in the hole for the clutch pivot ball. I was not sure if it would work or not, but while dyno tuning we could see it working fine.

Strip Poker 388 03-14-2013 12:39 PM

2 Attachment(s)
retapping the threads might work ok.

lakematdude ive been over tighting them then,never knew the spec's,thanks

this is the one that came out,and it is a merc part

rmbuilder 03-14-2013 02:24 PM

Rob,
I understand it’s difficult to photograph machined surfaces due to shadowing, however, does picture two accurately represent the surface finish of the deck?

Bob

Young Performance 03-14-2013 04:51 PM

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Here is one other option Rob. I have run into a few situations where we couldn't put the knock sensor in a pipe plug hole. I made an adapter to mount it in a bolt hole. This particular one is 1/4"-20 thread. I've done them in 5/16 and 3/8 thread as well. It's made from 1" aluminum bar stock. I just turned it down on the lathe, cut the threads and then drilled and tapped the 1/4"NPT for the sensor.
Eddie

Strip Poker 388 03-14-2013 10:59 PM

3 Attachment(s)

Originally Posted by mrfixxall (Post 3885471)
how come you didn't get the steel main caps?


as far as I know this is the only gen 6 block they make,price was close to the same as a new GM gen 6,this weighed alot more than the GM and looks like higher grade materal.The stock block was holding up good and still had a good leak down.Im having to buy new Whipples and the new ones will have 1 psi more, so Im going to turn it down some .really didnt have to have it.Im building it back just like it was,just all new guts.:drink:

Rob


Eddie would the aluminum change the frequency of the detination to the knock sensor?



heres a pick of the 2 blank bosses,

HaxbySpeed 03-15-2013 12:07 AM


Originally Posted by Strip Poker 388 (Post 3886006)
would the aluminum change the frequency of the detination to the knock sensor?

It doesn't change the frequency of the sensor, but it will effect it's sensitivity. The GM knock sensor that Merc commonly uses has a frequency of 10.5kHz. Different block locations can change it's sensitivity, putting them in brass y-blocks, etc. If your EFI system isn't capable of fine tuning the sensitivity then sometimes you have to move them around or use adapters to avoid detecting false knock. The block will drill and tap pretty easy, I'd put it there if you don't want to use the drain hole.

Strip Poker 388 03-16-2013 11:14 AM


Originally Posted by rmbuilder (Post 3885743)
Rob,
I understand it’s difficult to photograph machined surfaces due to shadowing, however, does picture two accurately represent the surface finish of the deck?

Bob

Yes I am having to have it redone:(


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