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fixx
Originally Posted by Strip Poker 388
(Post 3885460)
I dont recall one under the head,I allways got it from Merc, maybe a non merc is diff? Ill look again
Rob |
Originally Posted by Strip Poker 388
(Post 3885423)
I really dont want to put it in the drain, Every time I rebuild the engine I remove the knock sensor and the built in nut spins and rounds off, have to use channel locks it remove, maybe im screwing it in to tight, but I assume its bad after it spins.
Do not use sealer on threads. Install knock sensor in engine block. Torque to 12-16 lb. ft. (16.3-21.7 N·m). Depending on the old engine application the knock system came off of, You might be able to install the knock sensor in the upper location on a Y-fitting to use as a block drain as well for winter time. Merc part number 22-8067051, Item #12, http://www.mercruiserparts.com/Show_...rs+and+Sensors See page 4B-22 for the idea, http://www.boatfix.com/merc/Servmanl/16/16B4R2.PDF |
Originally Posted by compedgemarine
(Post 3885351)
on every ski boat with efi that I have worked on the knock sensor was screwed into the drain hole on the side of the block. they all came that way from the engine builders.
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The last engine I built, I retapped the threads on the knock sensor to 1/2x13 and screwed it in the hole for the clutch pivot ball. I was not sure if it would work or not, but while dyno tuning we could see it working fine.
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retapping the threads might work ok.
lakematdude ive been over tighting them then,never knew the spec's,thanks this is the one that came out,and it is a merc part |
Rob,
I understand it’s difficult to photograph machined surfaces due to shadowing, however, does picture two accurately represent the surface finish of the deck? Bob |
2 Attachment(s)
Here is one other option Rob. I have run into a few situations where we couldn't put the knock sensor in a pipe plug hole. I made an adapter to mount it in a bolt hole. This particular one is 1/4"-20 thread. I've done them in 5/16 and 3/8 thread as well. It's made from 1" aluminum bar stock. I just turned it down on the lathe, cut the threads and then drilled and tapped the 1/4"NPT for the sensor.
Eddie |
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Originally Posted by mrfixxall
(Post 3885471)
how come you didn't get the steel main caps?
as far as I know this is the only gen 6 block they make,price was close to the same as a new GM gen 6,this weighed alot more than the GM and looks like higher grade materal.The stock block was holding up good and still had a good leak down.Im having to buy new Whipples and the new ones will have 1 psi more, so Im going to turn it down some .really didnt have to have it.Im building it back just like it was,just all new guts.:drink: Rob Eddie would the aluminum change the frequency of the detination to the knock sensor? heres a pick of the 2 blank bosses, |
Originally Posted by Strip Poker 388
(Post 3886006)
would the aluminum change the frequency of the detination to the knock sensor?
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Originally Posted by rmbuilder
(Post 3885743)
Rob,
I understand it’s difficult to photograph machined surfaces due to shadowing, however, does picture two accurately represent the surface finish of the deck? Bob |
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