Through hull fittings
#1
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I'm adding dry tails with my new blown 509 and have a question about a large bung on the tail. I'm assuming a hose hooks to it and directs water to a through hull fitting to dump outside the transom. If that is right, what do I need to look for in a through hull fitting? Just the same id as the bung and made of stainless steel? Any suggestions where to look for such an item.
The bung I'm referring to can be seen in this picture on the exit end of the tail.
Thanks
The bung I'm referring to can be seen in this picture on the exit end of the tail.
Thanks
![](http://i1126.photobucket.com/albums/l613/cp5899/74EAB05D-56A2-4751-8908-B89205A68647-2852-000001369C971622.jpg)
#3
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#5
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It looks like that tail is made to go all the way through the transom. Meaning, that bung will not be on the inside of the boat. It wouldn't use a seperate transom mounted tip. It would extend all the way through a ring in the transom. If so, you can just install a 90* fitting in that bung and let the water dump outside.
Eddie
Eddie
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I think they are Gil drys for trs.
Eddie, I looked at doing what you suggested, but the only problem with that is the exit holes are a 1/4 of an inch below the swim deck. I would either have to raise the swim deck (more holes in the transom, or cut through the swim deck to make room for the pipe.
Since they are for a trs setup, I'm going to have to cut them and modify them to fit my bravo setup. First thing is to shorten them and second is to change the angle a bit by either a wedge of cutting them off the flange and rewelding them.
I couldn't buy the material for what I picked them up for so I figured I could make them work.
Eddie, I looked at doing what you suggested, but the only problem with that is the exit holes are a 1/4 of an inch below the swim deck. I would either have to raise the swim deck (more holes in the transom, or cut through the swim deck to make room for the pipe.
Since they are for a trs setup, I'm going to have to cut them and modify them to fit my bravo setup. First thing is to shorten them and second is to change the angle a bit by either a wedge of cutting them off the flange and rewelding them.
I couldn't buy the material for what I picked them up for so I figured I could make them work.