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575 rebuild
Estimated price to freshen a 575 SCI? This would include the block, heads and blower.
After this year, I'm looking to have my engines sent out for a complete re-build and I'm just looking for a starting point. |
Originally Posted by kjm5125
(Post 3907052)
Estimated price to freshen a 575 SCI? This would include the block, heads and blower.
After this year, I'm looking to have my engines sent out for a complete re-build and I'm just looking for a starting point. |
Check Keegan on here. Just had Young do his and convert to rollers, had the blowers freshened too if I remember right.
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PM Ryan9154 or call Tyler Crocket and Jim Valeko. Those 2 freshened Ryans 575's and I believe they dynoed at 742 hp. Pretty impressive. Engines ran very good. They did NOT even add a cooler or increase the boost, which would help make even more power if you wanted! They currently are doing a full rebuild on Ryans engines now shooting for 1000hp, 540's, new blowers, chillers, etc.
Good luck on your project! Glad you love your ARNESON DRIVES also! :drink: |
New pistons, pins, and rings, all bearings, rod bolts, complete head rebuild, block honed 0005, labor for R & R, new bearings in blower and new belt, rebuild fuel and oil pump - $15K-$20K
Merc charges $24K not including R & R for their 1075's. doesn't include bearings either. |
I think there are too many variables to throw a general cost number out.
I just opened that exact worm can. As 4bus mentioned the cams are going to be a big deal. You can go with replicated flat tappet cams (which leave a lot to be desired and would be cheaper). A more expensive way to go is with someones proven package (Dean Gellner in Ohio, Tyler Crocket in MI for example) that has a cams/ecm mapping already selected. If you replace the heads that could throw a curve ball as far as the packaged mapping from them. Your pistons may be able to be reused but you can bump up the compression if you are looking for more power without spinning the little huffers any faster. How many hours on on your motors? You may not need to do anything yet...although stock head gaskets are terrible on the 575. Mine should already be tore down and will be inspected soon. |
Originally Posted by JRider
(Post 3907220)
I think there are too many variables to throw a general cost number out.
I just opened that exact worm can. As 4bus mentioned the cams are going to be a big deal. You can go with replicated flat tappet cams (which leave a lot to be desired and would be cheaper). A more expensive way to go is with someones proven package (Dean Gellner in Ohio, Tyler Crocket in MI for example) that has a cams/ecm mapping already selected. If you replace the heads that could throw a curve ball as far as the packaged mapping from them. Your pistons may be able to be reused but you can bump up the compression if you are looking for more power without spinning the little huffers any faster. How many hours on on your motors? You may not need to do anything yet...although stock head gaskets are terrible on the 575. Mine should already be tore down and will be inspected soon. My lower ends had amazing compression and balance numbers both hot and cold, so good the builder was second guessing it. I agree, depending on the hours he may not have to go downstairs. |
Also it looks like you have the holley blowers, which are dry in the rear. If you plan on keeping the stock blower set up you might want to upgrade to the dual oil bath blowers that Biggus has for sale on here, then sell the ones you have.
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Originally Posted by 4bus
(Post 3907263)
Funny that you mention the HG. A local guy partial lost a HG at 200 hrs and it cut the block do to crosfiring, had me so scared it was the reason I tore mine down. My bill got a lot bigger adding the cams :daz:
My lower ends had amazing compression and balance numbers both hot and cold, so good the builder was second guessing it. I agree, depending on the hours he may not have to go downstairs. |
Originally Posted by JRider
(Post 3907304)
I had my heads pulled around 200hrs and the head gaskets were burnt toast...common problem on the 575. My motor guy said one more hard run and I could have torched the block. My leak down was within Merc spec (which is WIDE) last time I checked but I have fuel intrusion in the oil. I would guess some fuel intrusion would be normal as I am atleast 9.5psi boost. I dont bother running synthetic because I change the oil after every few runs. I use 15/40 rotella and STP with ZDDP with the flat tappet.
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1 Attachment(s)
Stripped Littlefield 871 with triangulated discharge, sitting on a whipple low pro cooler.
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Originally Posted by offshorexcursion
(Post 3907137)
PM Ryan9154 or call Tyler Crocket and Jim Valeko. Those 2 freshened Ryans 575's and I believe they dynoed at 742 hp. Pretty impressive. Engines ran very good. They did NOT even add a cooler or increase the boost, which would help make even more power if you wanted! They currently are doing a full rebuild on Ryans engines now shooting for 1000hp, 540's, new blowers, chillers, etc.
Good luck on your project! Glad you love your ARNESON DRIVES also! :drink: |
Originally Posted by TahoeRick
(Post 3907179)
New pistons, pins, and rings, all bearings, rod bolts, complete head rebuild, block honed 0005, labor for R & R, new bearings in blower and new belt, rebuild fuel and oil pump - $15K-$20K
Merc charges $24K not including R & R for their 1075's. doesn't include bearings either. |
Originally Posted by JRider
(Post 3907220)
I think there are too many variables to throw a general cost number out.
I just opened that exact worm can. As 4bus mentioned the cams are going to be a big deal. You can go with replicated flat tappet cams (which leave a lot to be desired and would be cheaper). A more expensive way to go is with someones proven package (Dean Gellner in Ohio, Tyler Crocket in MI for example) that has a cams/ecm mapping already selected. If you replace the heads that could throw a curve ball as far as the packaged mapping from them. Your pistons may be able to be reused but you can bump up the compression if you are looking for more power without spinning the little huffers any faster. How many hours on on your motors? You may not need to do anything yet...although stock head gaskets are terrible on the 575. Mine should already be tore down and will be inspected soon. |
A few years back, when I installed the coolers, we replaced the head gaskets. Last year, I lost a blower and had it rebuilt by the Blower Shop. I was going to send them both out, but I knew after this year, at over 300 hours, I would have the engines rebuilt and possible go with 871 blowers.
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An 871 would definitely be a good move. If your pistons are good you could save that money and put it towards 871s also adding what you can get for your stock blowers. I think you would come out well. Dyers has a 871 in a kit form for the 575 that is reasonably priced. If you have to replace your pistons you can bump up your CR and go back to stock pulleys on the little blowers. One obstacle I see is your whipple coolers...they would need to be redrilled for an 871. Since you have the Holley/B&M blower I think the B&M 420 uses the same pattern as the 250. If you could find a pair of those you may be able to utilize your whipple coolers in their current form. Just throwing some things out there to think about.
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I would look at putting new cylinder heads on. Aluminum because of supercharged engine, Dart or similar.
Wannabe |
Originally Posted by kjm5125
(Post 3907413)
I have received one estimate which included all of what you mentioned and the price which was $24,000.00. He did mention he was on the high side and he just wanted to be safe. Once he got the engines and tore them down, it could be less.
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Originally Posted by TahoeRick
(Post 3907960)
Well, I am really doing some trick updating of the EFI, had lots of minor stuff fixed, am over $20K for each motor. But, they will literally be brand new 571 CI 900 HP with warrantee. 38 ft cat that will do 145+
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Originally Posted by JRider
(Post 3908004)
What are you using for blowers? I would think with 900hp you would have to be going with a bigger roots style blower. Also, what are doing with the EFI?
Not sure what size blower shop blowers I have, a step down from 1471... The EFI was a fixed map setup, now we added O2 bungs and many safety features(low oil pressure shuts off, too hot, etc), set up for high elevation with a switch to flick to go to sea level and put original blower pulleys back on - it will have 900 HP EA at sea level and 900 HP at 6250 ft elevation. Will have two tunes in EFI with switch on each box. What's important is that you have a very experienced marine mechanic and marine machine shop. Also, they always find something else that needs to be fixed that costs more! I found out that both my transmissions needed to be rebuilt. Hubar took 7 weeks when they promised 3-4 wks, causing me to cancel my fully paid, non refundable, desert storm vacation... Use Bam! |
Originally Posted by JRider
(Post 3908004)
What are you using for blowers? I would think with 900hp you would have to be going with a bigger roots style blower. Also, what are doing with the EFI?
Really looking forward to first start up and tuning on the lake at each rpm level! |
If someone here can post pics send me an PM with email address and I will send pics of motors almost ready to install. All that's left is to get proper size blower pulleys to have same HP here in Tahoe as sea level and to install new ATI dampers.
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Originally Posted by TahoeRick
(Post 3909773)
If someone here can post pics send me an PM with email address and I will send pics of motors almost ready to install. All that's left is to get proper size blower pulleys to have same HP here in Tahoe as sea level and to install new ATI dampers.
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