First start up on my new big block :) + Much more build photos and progress!
 

After buying a 99 H2X I finally restored it and repowered it!

Motor is a Mike Ford Racing Engine.

502 Gen 6 Block
4.560 JE pistons
Skat "Long Rod"
Nickerson procharger Cam
Ported iron heads
ARP Studs
Double roller chain, Degreed
M3 Procharger with 12 PSI pulley
Custom Fuel Rails
63 LB injectors
ECU by Arizona speed
Stainless marine manifolds





http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=90vFgwKZw8c&feature=c4-overview&list=UUEs_TwoA3FesQxlWesejBtQ
May not be much to some.. But IM PUMPED :bunnydance:

sounds good and should run good.

Thank you very much!


Back in the day, the boat did 92 on radar. 30P Hydromotive 4 blade (http://www.hydromotive.com/int_quad4_plus.html) turning 5400 rpms.

So far at 3000 rpms its went 70MPH on gps :) Really happy with everything so far! My first mod after break-in is external steering though! Previous owner was crazy!

I like it! I thought I had the only boat that idled that low!

750-800 Rpm's It idles around factory spec. I guess that's ideal for smooth engagement of drive.

Wow I bet 92mph in that thing is a ride - congrats!

I would think so man. For me personally i just like having the power when i need it. But i find cruising at 70 is fun enough :) But always have enough if a Checkmate comes peeping around ;)

What is it that makes a motor sound so good? I was hoping for the lope and crackle that yours has outta my 355. Didnt happen. Yours sounds awesome. Do you need a helmet at 90?

I am not sure, I let the man himself Mike Ford, do his job. I know he had to move the cam quite a bit to get it into spec. This is also at factory timing. Set it to 8 Degrees in timing mode.

Sounds good, but you need to trim that outdrive down to neutral or just slightly above neutral; or you are going to be pulling it all apart again to replace the U-joints or worse on your Bravo. That's why trimmed all the way up is called the "trailer position."

With a Bravo setup; the drive shaft is spinning as soon as your start the motor. The "clutch" and "shift" mechanism are in the top of the drive. You are putting a terrible bind on your U-joints; NOT good at all.

When are you installing the hydraulic steering?

Thanks for the tip, its not at full trailer. But i can see exactly what your talking about! And really appreciate the tip! I'm just looking at the different systems now. I do wish to go dual ram. Any suggestions?

IMCO would be my first choice since Marine Machine is now semi-retired.

http://www.cpperformance.com/p-13898...rn-drives.aspx

How would this system do?

Make sure to go with dual ram full hydraulic to the helm and not just an add on system.

Ideal.

Congrats on getting your new engine done. I got mine done a couple months ago and its a great feeling. Now that I have the drive fixed we are back to running it. What prop are you running? 70 at 3000 is fast. I have bad slip at 3000-3800. I only get about 50-55 at 3500 with a 32p bravo. It really starts to hook up about 4000 and up.

I think i have the link to my prop in the first post. Its a hydromotive 30P I get high slip at 3000 if im nose down. Once i trim nose up it slingshots. Every haul is very different

What is the difference between the two in terms of safety? Or is the full helm just nicer drive? Big price difference so just asking :)

70mph/3000rpm/30p/assume 1.5 = -23% slip?
1.36=-12%

how much sugar is in that koolaid? just sayin...

You are 200% correct, very sorry it was 4000 rpm. Was not trying to pull one over on anyone. Just honest mistake

That makes more sense. Lol at 4000 is when mine starts to take off.

As for the steering you defiantly want to go with full hydraulic steering from the helm back. The add on kits still use the cable to work the steering and that's where the slack and safety is the issue. I just put a full hydraulic steering on my boat when I built my new motor and its awesome and couldn't imagine trying to drive my boat at high speeds with out it. I went with a used full hydraulic imco system and it is nice.

What kind of power are you making with 12psi?

Dont know HP. Im tuning the MEFI unit myself.

It is making 12 psi though? Can't imagine 12 psi with my setup. It would be pretty sweet before it blew the head gaskets and punch a hole in the block from snapping a rod.

I have only gone to 4000 RPM. Never seen more rpm than that. I was waiting for external steering and my widebands.. Which i started installing today!

http://i1111.photobucket.com/albums/...ps6201ec25.jpg
http://i1111.photobucket.com/albums/...ps8b59392e.jpg
http://i1111.photobucket.com/albums/...ps78cd17c0.jpg

Cut out the hole, welded the two layers together, and then welded on the SS bung :)

Just have to wire em up and install!

Here are some pics during the motor build :)

http://i1111.photobucket.com/albums/...psaf259a61.jpghttp://i1111.photobucket.com/albums/...ps04ea02f5.jpg
http://i1111.photobucket.com/albums/...ps04ea02f5.jpg
http://i1111.photobucket.com/albums/...ps33ce9dcd.jpg
http://i1111.photobucket.com/albums/...ps70ab9822.jpg
http://i1111.photobucket.com/albums/...ps98b59bf4.jpg
http://i1111.photobucket.com/albums/...pse777fa05.jpg
http://i1111.photobucket.com/albums/...psefbf6180.jpg

Nice build!!! And it sounds great!!

Looks just like what I finished up two months ago except I went with link bar lifters and with a mega blower/superchiller.

What are your cam specs?

Looks good.

Looks like it might have some compression... How much boost is it actually making? Mine was pulling timing out like crazy at 9psi. Dropped it to 6psi and it stopped pulling timing and made more horsepower.

sounds really nice !

What's your fuel setup like besides the injectors?

I bought fuel rail stock and did custom rails. Will try to get pics soon.

But it goes like this. Custom pickup tube from tank -10 line to aero a1000 pump, -10 to a Y fitting which goes to two -8 fittings into rails. rails go to fuel pressure regulator which then returns fuel through the Arizona speed fuel cooler and back into the tank!

I came up with this on my own and think it should work well, but we wont know until we push it more.

Can not wait to get external steering and go from there!

Thanks, and thank you everyone else for the compliments!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NDBgSJwzIyE Check out the AEM fail safe guages i picked up.. Ill be using the fail safe out put to a relay to activate some sort of light or buzzer. With this feature and logging i think it will work out great :)

What heads are on it? 4.560 bore on a production 502 block or bowtie block?

Ported Irons, with A Nice Serdi Valve JOB :)

Also the block is a Gen 6 Block, Its what came with the boat. Machinist who deals with big blocks only said there was i had no worries. :whistle:

From what I've read it's not common practice to go that big on a stock block in marine use. I'm assuming that's why joe was asking.

That aem gauge seemed like a nice setup.

What is your compression ratio?

How much boost did you see at 4000 rpms?

Thanks for sharing your build and engine combo......... It would be nice if more people did the same.... I will be sharing my NA502 specs when done....... Sounds like you are taking your time and getting the tune just right! Sounds mean!!! TBF

I was using a old boost gauge which read zero, it was from when boat sat for years. Im hoping to get out today and actually get some datalogs of RPM/Boost/AFR. Once i do i will gladly get them up here.

I had to go that big sadly as the previous machinist had done a number on the block. I know the guys over at MFRE, would of done what ever tested needed. After all the guy used to work for Boyd Racing Engines, and has built many 1500-2000HP Big blocks.

If it does eventually fail we will visit it then. But for now i'm going to enjoy it!

For testing today i'm installing the small S/C pulley first to get AFR's in check with FPR. Until i get back up to the shop to get Mefiburn. I reprogram ECU's for a living. First boat i'm messing with. Although I have done many Jetskis :)

Heres one i did on Motec :)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wOrBR...FesQxlWesejBtQ

And this one to :)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=katb8ciucIg

SO I look forward to this!

Thank you! I appreciate all the comments :) And also appreciate everyone's suggestions! That's why we are all here! More so then power or anything else is safety! We all love this sport, and want to be able to keep doing it for many years.

What I meant by what heads, was what ''model''? Small oval ports, large oval ports, rectangle ports, etc.

Wasn't trying to pi$$ on your rainbow, I was just worried about 4.560 bore on a production 502 block that's been in a boat for many years, with 12psi of procharged boost going thru it. Ive split a cylinder wall before and It sucked. Filled the engine with water in seconds. Had I not caught it as quickly as I did, I woulda wiped everything out.

A buddy of mine built a 522CI like you have. With a M4 Procharger, edelbrock aluminum heads with mild porting, around 8.0:1 compression, hydraulic roller cam. Well over 1000HP. He's running Dart block, with a Lunati Blower crank, and oliver rods, JE Blower pistons with upgraded pins for the power level.

I'd imagine your somewhere in the neighborhood of 9:1 static with the flat top pistons?