Anything will help, good luck !

I made my own stands out of 1-1/2" aluminum bar and used 7/16" arp head studs to mount the procharger bracket. There is absolutely no flex in the bracket. I even tried hanging off the bracket with all 250lbs and it laughed at me... When I mounted the bracket with the procharger hardware it was like a flimsy piece of junk.

Are you still using the stock aluminum tube spacers ?

I had this problem with my drag truck. I did switch to a cog setup and would destroy the rubber cog style belts too. I had a friend who ran top fuel dragsters and he told me to run a Kevlar belt from RCD they cut me one the right width and I ran that same belt for 4 years without a failure. Then I switched to a turbo. The only catch is you can't bend the belts backwards so I had to modify all the idlers to push out. You also need to run a fixed tensioner.

No I used 1-1/2" aluminum bar and on a lathe put a 7/16 hole in the center. I had to tap my block and head to accept 7/16 but no big deal.

I was actually asking Articfriends the question, I was going to suggest something similar to what you did, use all bar stock instead of the tubes.

That is a GREAT idea, I actually have some 1 1/4 or 1 3/8 Al round stock on the rack , it would be a good start besides reinforcing or building a new head bracket. If bracket did not flex this would probably be a non issue. Did you counter sink the procharger into the thicker bracket or move pulleys, use spacers??

I was going to counter sink and got lazy and slammed it together. I think stepping up to 7/16 instead of 3/8 really did the trick. Like I said I mounted it previous with the procharger hardware and I could literally flex the bracket with my hands. Don't have that issue anymore. I did spin my accessory pulleys down on the lathe and messed with the brackets to get the procharger and pulleys as close to the front of the motor as I possible could. My goal was to not have the supercharger pulley hanging way off the end of the crank like procharger did. It took a good evening no playing around to get it all finished...

You could use the bar stock for the spacers, run it from end to end of the factory mounting plate. Bolt the mounting plate to the bar stock so it can't rack on the bolts or bend, bolt through both to the head and block. We use the 7/16 studs and cut the crank pulley spacer down to get the blower back closer to the motor just like Black Baja said.

12 rib drive? The problem I remember with mine (I will have to look) is the 12 rib drive is already real close to the brackets/parts and supercharger cannot be any closer to the motor on mine so the thicker bracket would have to be counter sunk where the head units mounts in order to get pulleys back to the same spot they were. I am going to take a look at it again tomorrow am if I get time and re-assess it again, I have spare everything, head unit, bracket, even some cylinder heads and block so I could actually mock it up on a dummy motor in the shop as long as I make it look like the one in boat and play with the brackets then, thanks for your input, Smitty