Just wanted to add to the thread, for what its worth.

The AFR during the WOT run was between 11-11.5. Rich yes, but not kill the sensor rich...so its not pig rich killing the sensor. We ran this sensor and the first one for a while (the first one longer, probably close to 45 min) before we ran it WOT and it was fine, idling through the no wake, on and off plane several times, etc. Its not until we stand on it and then start to slow down...thats when it starts reading either 9.0 rich or this time it went 15.0 lean and stayed there.

Its also in the same location Lightning installs the bung from the factory, so thats why its frustrating that it doesnt work.

Boat has 4" slash cut tips with no flappers, FWIW.

Guess we'll have to start tuning it via spark plugs like "back in the day"

To the guy that did some work to his to keep the reversion water out, what did you do and have you tested it yet?

Thanks
-Allyn....ezstriper's son

Toolate - I have inserts that make my KE headers dry to the ends of the tips. There is a connection at the tailpipe where these inserts meet to seperate the exh gas from the water. I removed the insert last night and put silicone in the seal area to stop any water that may be leaking from the water side to the exhaust side. I haven't tested yet, this weekend I will. My LM2 is going way lean like 45-50:1 so I am thinking its water. I also ordered a new sensor last night from amazon (thanks Mr G) for $47.5 and will be trying that as well.

Gotcha, sounds like you did some pretty involving stuff...I hope it works for you!

I think it's just the header design. I have lightnings on my boat that turn down and it's never killed an 02 sensor, but the standard lightnings seem to not drop very much and collectors are kind of short before water dumps in. Any 02 sensor is going to fail if water gets on it.

Somebody had suggested these extenders a while back. I had bookmarked the page so when I decide to do EFI I can put bungs in my Lightning headers. I'd like to know how you welded the bungs in place.

http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/x...cat=250&page=2

I have this coming too... we will see

http://www.ebay.com/itm/O2-oxygen-se...#ht_2607wt_843

Just pulling the sensor out of the pipe some will not affect the reading at all will it?

TY

I would say yes.

How much, I dont know but they are designed to be stuck into the exhaust path to get a good reading.

If you decide to go that route, use it and tune it. Write down some different RPM's and what the AFR was at each RPM. Then pull the 90 out and stick the 02 right in there and go run it at those RPM's you wrote down and check the difference.

Of course you would want to do this AFTER you have it tuned where you want so if it does kill the sensor, you'll be ok.

ThisIsLivin - Basically, our welding guy cut out a 2"x2" square where we wanted the sensor, drilled a hole for the bung, tig welded the bung in place, then with the square he cut out drilled a whole the size of the bung so it would slide back over, and tig welded that back on. We can get you a pic if you want, its a pretty slick idea, IMO.

Ok, this is what we have....the silent choice is probably part of the issue...

You may be correct that the SC could cause enough back pressure to get the sensors wet. I am also confronting the same issue if I want to run wideband O2 on my boat. My plan was to just use the O2 to get dialed in, and then put a plug in the bungs and run it without the O2. With the supercharger I can see why you would want to run it full time. Was there any concern about getting a true reading with the sensor so close to where the four primaries feed into the collector? I would think that ideally you would want the bung further downstream from there, but I can see that you don't have many options with the silent choice.

What cam overlap and duration are you running? Just curious.