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whats truly needed to swap an ls engine

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whats truly needed to swap an ls engine

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Old 08-19-2013, 12:37 AM
  #21
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I know I eventually plan on bravo but for now since my engine I had bent a connecting rod and ended my season, I only have the funds to do engine or outdrive. so this year sadly will be engine...lol Got a link to the crank driven pump? I'm planning on posting all the information i can find on this swap. i got tired of searching every thread to find bits and pieces so I came up with this thread. So anyone who is thinking of this will know what is really needed to do this. and its a lot less than people realize.
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Old 08-19-2013, 10:19 AM
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Here is where I got mine...
pump and pulley for $630... was cheaper when I bought mine, by about half.

http://www.marinepartssource.com/new...mfgno=RA057032

http://www.marinepartssource.com/new...&mfgno=R065050

Here is a link to the whole parts breakdown... This is a 6.0 engine and everything off it works on the LSs

http://www.marinepartssource.com/crusaderpb/60.asp

Keep in mind this pump goes where the stock power steering pump goes. The Hardin pump goes where the A/C compressor goes and might be easier to deal with.

Last edited by timmoore; 08-19-2013 at 10:25 AM.
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Old 08-20-2013, 06:50 PM
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See this is the kind of information we need. This should answer a lot of peoples questions on this swap
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Old 08-20-2013, 10:24 PM
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i wrote this in another post and i think it is appropriate here.

p.s you get one freebe. if you use the stock p/s pump it has the same pressure line threads

I used the hi tek stainless headers, and made the pipes out the back. bit the bullet and got the hardin marine pump. mines a bravo so I didn't have another choice that i found. i think i got the first hardin pump for the ls sold! not sure if it will work correctly with the ls1, but on my 5.3 it was way too short and when bolted on it hit the water pump. I made a bracket to bring it out to line up to the serp belt and it works fine. sucks to pay $900 and then have to modify. you cant use a crank mount pump on these engines with the stock harmonic balancer because its like a thin 3 spoke design. unless you modify the ? i used a stand alone setup from shwanke engines for the electronics and fuel system. great product. and they have everything for 850. ecm, harness, fuel pump, fuel lines, fittings, fuse block, relay. the bravo coupler bolts up to a stock manual trans flywheel without the locating dowels. i used adjustable conversion motor mounts. closed cooling from seakamp. lots of fun matching up the boat harness to the new one.

its hitting a power loss and detonation at 58mph no matter which prop i use. tried 19p and 23p and some random 4 blade i don't know the pitch of. i need to check fuel pressure because its detonating real bad at that speed. i think the fuel pump is not keeping up. not real worried about it as it runs great otherwise, and im probably procharging it this winter so fuel and tuning setup will change anyway.
great power to get on plane and midrange is awesome. it cruises nice at about 42mph at 3200 rpm. got probably 300 miles on it so far. bunch of trips from quantico to Fairview and once into dc. sounds like a open headers vette! so much different than old school sound.

duramax is the next project
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Old 08-20-2013, 11:34 PM
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Thanks for the info very much appreciated. Like I said I'm hoping to make a thread where anyone thinking about this swap can see what and where to get everything to make it run. I got tired of searching all over the place between different forums and tons of threads. I'm still waiting to hear back from MSD to see if the alpha interrupter switch will work or not. I love the sound of a nice running V8, I had an old ford FE 390 with a big cam, full MSD ignition, headers through straight pipes. drove that for about 5 years. On the tunning side of things have you tried using EFI live or getting ahold of Blackbear tunes?
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Old 08-21-2013, 07:42 AM
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I'm using HP Tuners on mine.
Probably have about 1500 miles on it. We put 65ish miles on it Saturday.
Here is a pic while I was building it.
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Old 08-21-2013, 09:17 AM
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You can get adapter plates that adapt from the LS 4 bolt to the old style 3 bolt mounts.
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Old 08-21-2013, 09:30 AM
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Originally Posted by BenHaizlett View Post
i wrote this in another post and i think it is appropriate here.

p.s you get one freebe. if you use the stock p/s pump it has the same pressure line threads

I used the hi tek stainless headers, and made the pipes out the back. bit the bullet and got the hardin marine pump. mines a bravo so I didn't have another choice that i found. i think i got the first hardin pump for the ls sold! not sure if it will work correctly with the ls1, but on my 5.3 it was way too short and when bolted on it hit the water pump. I made a bracket to bring it out to line up to the serp belt and it works fine. sucks to pay $900 and then have to modify. you cant use a crank mount pump on these engines with the stock harmonic balancer because its like a thin 3 spoke design. unless you modify the ? i used a stand alone setup from shwanke engines for the electronics and fuel system. great product. and they have everything for 850. ecm, harness, fuel pump, fuel lines, fittings, fuse block, relay. the bravo coupler bolts up to a stock manual trans flywheel without the locating dowels. i used adjustable conversion motor mounts. closed cooling from seakamp. lots of fun matching up the boat harness to the new one.

its hitting a power loss and detonation at 58mph no matter which prop i use. tried 19p and 23p and some random 4 blade i don't know the pitch of. i need to check fuel pressure because its detonating real bad at that speed. i think the fuel pump is not keeping up. not real worried about it as it runs great otherwise, and im probably procharging it this winter so fuel and tuning setup will change anyway.
great power to get on plane and midrange is awesome. it cruises nice at about 42mph at 3200 rpm. got probably 300 miles on it so far. bunch of trips from quantico to Fairview and once into dc. sounds like a open headers vette! so much different than old school sound.

duramax is the next project
This guys setup is legit, and he did an awesome job on the install...nice and clean, looks like it came in the boat from the factory.

Whats up Ben, its Allyn....we talked at the boat ramp at Hope Springs last weekend.

Wasted Income - If you get bored and want an extra 20HP, find a used LS6 intake for that thing.

Last edited by TooLateVTEC; 08-21-2013 at 09:35 AM.
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Old 08-21-2013, 10:07 PM
  #29
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Originally Posted by sdg0080 View Post
okay one thing i forgot about is how do you attach your factory gauges to the ls block? Also since im running an Alpha one, how do I hook up the shift interupt swithc? guess thats one thing that might be important...lol I know normally it grounds out the distributor but on a DIS system... what the hell do I ground out??
If you've got a 1500 truck block, I drilled and tapped the oil cooler block off above the filter for 1/8 pipe and used the stock oil press sender. Same can be done with the water pump housing for temp. I did efi for $850 total. Shwanke engines. Fuel pump lines ECM and harness. I did a bravo so I'm not sure about shift interrupt.

Thanks for the compliment Allen. Hope all works out for your mega squirt. See ya on the water.
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Old 08-21-2013, 11:13 PM
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MSD responded, the interrupter switch can not be interfaced with their unit. However, as far as I can tell. If you wired up the interrupter switch to the main power line, it would cut the power and cause the engine to studder. as far as I can tell it should work just like the OEM when it grounds out the dizzy. it happens so fast that you have restored power before the crank can come to a full stop. So, assuming I'm right it would resume operating. only one way to find out however...
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