winterization
#11
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Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 69
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From: North Tonawanda, NY
I start my motor on the hose and let the thermostat open up, then I switch to a bucket with a spigot filled with 50/50 mix of green antifreeze/water. I run the motor on that for the full 5gallons which ends up cycling through the motor and exhuast manifolds and all hoses. Everything is filled with antifreeze.
#12
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Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 2,571
Likes: 0
From: Gaylord, Mi
You do not want to spray fogging oil in the intake of an EFI or any fuel injected engine. Many, many posts on this in the past that will provide valuable information.
To fog an EFI engine PROPERLY, you can either:
Mix up a 2-stroke batch of gas and run your engines on this small tank while running the AF through or...
Remove your fuel/water separator; pour out half the gas, fill it with 2-stroke oil, reinstall and run your AF through the engine.
Many people will say "I've done it for years" referring to spraying fogging oil in the throttle body, but you are NOT protecting the entire fuel system if you do this, and you run the risk of gumming up sensors. Such is why the above procedure is referred to in Mercury Service Manuals.
Again, do a search. 100s, probably 1000s of good posts/threads.
Oh, and please no more talk about this crap until November.
To fog an EFI engine PROPERLY, you can either:
Mix up a 2-stroke batch of gas and run your engines on this small tank while running the AF through or...
Remove your fuel/water separator; pour out half the gas, fill it with 2-stroke oil, reinstall and run your AF through the engine.
Many people will say "I've done it for years" referring to spraying fogging oil in the throttle body, but you are NOT protecting the entire fuel system if you do this, and you run the risk of gumming up sensors. Such is why the above procedure is referred to in Mercury Service Manuals.
Again, do a search. 100s, probably 1000s of good posts/threads.
Oh, and please no more talk about this crap until November.
#15
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Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 618
Likes: 4
1)Unhook main hose coming into strainer.
2)Hook up hose from strainer to drum of antifreeze
3)Start motor (wife yells when antifreeze comes out tailpipes) turn off motor
4)Unhook hose from strainer and hook back up pick up hose
5)Strainer, heat exchanger, and headers have antifreeze on them all winter. IMO allowing air in creates corrosion.
2)Hook up hose from strainer to drum of antifreeze
3)Start motor (wife yells when antifreeze comes out tailpipes) turn off motor
4)Unhook hose from strainer and hook back up pick up hose
5)Strainer, heat exchanger, and headers have antifreeze on them all winter. IMO allowing air in creates corrosion.
#16
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Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 618
Likes: 4
Think of it this way. The only way to truly guarantee you've protected your block from freezing is to drain it. If you want to refill it with antifreeze as added insurance, that's cool. When you try to fill all of the cooling passages in your system with a perfect mix / concentration of antifreeze, it's pretty difficult to guarantee you've got it right. In the words of Clint Eastwood, "So kid, are you feeling lucky?" I'd always try to drain it first - no matter how hard it is. Just my 2 cents.
#19
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Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 534
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From: Clarence, NY
X2 without draining the headers, etc before adding anti freeze all you're doing is diluting the water in there with anti freeze. I even drain the anti freeze after running in the pink stuff in case there's a pocket of weak solution. I want it to have room to expand. The thought of splitting a header or cooler keeps me awake at night.
#20
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 3,570
Likes: 127
From: Pasadena, MD
A well respected marine mechanic from Alaska told me a long time ago "air don't freeze" and I have been doing it ever since.
I like Fixx's idea so you don't have to take apart anything but you would have to do a lot of boats to make it worth it.
I like Fixx's idea so you don't have to take apart anything but you would have to do a lot of boats to make it worth it.




