Following in ice's footsteps thinkig he messed up and two stoke had it right I came up with the following.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]508096[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]508097[/ATTACH]

Ok so I went and ran the boat as shown above and here is what I found.

You really get what you pay for, most of these cups use an aluminum underwire which flexed too much while getting on plane. One had stainless which did help but the cross spray from the tips killed my top end.

One had vent holes on the top (looked alike like lace), this caused too much cavitation could not even get on plane.

One had extra padding to increase the cup size; while it makes everything thing look good, planing, engine sound, RPM's its all kinda fake because at the end of the day I had the same results that I started with.

I am not going to tell you how much cup was added from fear of being beaten.

hell,my dums azz has enough trouble with english!

rumor has it he keeps the paddels in the cabin. LOL.that,s where he does his spankin.

We've had a very difficult year of rebuilding...... I've been trying to update molds & fixtures and at the same time handle a huge amount of repairs & "mod" jobs. We've been behind with props the entire summer & are still a couple of weeks behind. I haven't had any time to develop any "new" stuff.
I'm planning a major expansion of our facilities & production capabilities this winter so we can move forward with newer designs.

Back to this thread .......... "duck tape", "correct cup size", "cup venting" & the in-depth testing with the female cup devices shows how this community of performance boaters will go to the extremes to find that last little bit of performance left in their boats!!!!!! This thread has become very entertaining indeed!!!!!!

Cup is located incorrectly, a couple of "D" cups sitting in the passenger seat will get that boat on plane!

Those are badass! Brand new radial surface drives. Supposed to reinvent performance boating.

Darrell.


(Missed pics of paddle wheels)