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Old 09-23-2013, 08:42 PM
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Originally Posted by lil red
I don't think you meant .030 clearance. I have a customers cruiser with a 454 crusader doing the same thing. Gonna try 2 things, different brand of oil, then drop the pan and put a new pump in, hoping to find the relief valve sticking. We just put a long block in last year
oops .003
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Old 09-23-2013, 08:46 PM
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I would still cut filter to be sure, fastest and cheapest diagnostic to make sure bearings are ok.... take 5 minutes, most people avoid since they are afraid to find out!!
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Old 09-24-2013, 05:02 AM
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I'm going to cut open the filter tonight. Will it be easy to see the debris if the bearings are the issue?
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Old 09-24-2013, 10:41 AM
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Sounds like a stuck relief valve, had that happen on a car once. Had to pull the motor to get the pump out and fix it. It would be interesting to know what oil you are running. I tried running a 10w30 racing oil in my motor and after a long hard run it would drop to almost zero at idle, but it would come back up as the oil cooled. For those that are wondering, yes my oil cooler is a little small, seems it doesn't like all the extra horsepower I added. I run Amsoil Dominator 15w-50 now and I on the plus side of 250 at near wide open running for long periods of time (10-30 miles) and the problem is solved.
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Old 09-24-2013, 11:44 AM
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I run the mercury 25W-40 oil. This is really my first time with the motor in the boat. I purchased it off someone here on OSO almost 2 years ago when I started this project and he said he had only 8 hrs on it and was fine. When I started on the stand last year the oil pressure was fine and when I started it at the dock this year it was fine 50 - 60lbs. I only had the issue when I took it out for it's first ride beyond just idling and revving it up in neutral.
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Old 09-24-2013, 12:35 PM
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Are you running the larger 8 quart marine pan on it, or the smaller 6 quart pan that typically comes on the automotive crate engines? Did it have a windage tray installed? Both of these could contribute to the oil getting whipped up by the crank causing aeration of the oil. Unfortunately this can lead to wiped mains.

Best to use the proper tool to open the oil filter. A saw is likely to leave its own set of metal shavings in the filter element, leading to a false positive. Once the can is cut off from the outside, you will see any metal trapped in between the pleats of the filter media. you may also see some sitting in the bottom of the can. Bearing material typically has a gold tint to it, since they often use brass, and it will be non-metallic, meaning a magnet will probably not pick it up.
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Old 09-24-2013, 02:26 PM
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I replaced the 6 quart with the marine 8 quart pan. I plan on trying to puncture a hole in the can near the top and cutting it with some snips to avoid shavings. Any better ideas, I'm all ears.

Thanks for all the advice and comments. I plan to open the filter tonight and hook up a mechanical gauge tonight. I'll post my findings.
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Old 09-24-2013, 02:58 PM
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I use good sharp tin snips.... perfect for this job!!

Originally Posted by Budman II
Are you running the larger 8 quart marine pan on it, or the smaller 6 quart pan that typically comes on the automotive crate engines? Did it have a windage tray installed? Both of these could contribute to the oil getting whipped up by the crank causing aeration of the oil. Unfortunately this can lead to wiped mains.

Best to use the proper tool to open the oil filter. A saw is likely to leave its own set of metal shavings in the filter element, leading to a false positive. Once the can is cut off from the outside, you will see any metal trapped in between the pleats of the filter media. you may also see some sitting in the bottom of the can. Bearing material typically has a gold tint to it, since they often use brass, and it will be non-metallic, meaning a magnet will probably not pick it up.
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Old 09-25-2013, 07:02 AM
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I cut the filter, dumped the oil from the filter in a clean plastic container and did not really notice anything in the filter element. So I put on the mechanical gauge and put the boat in the water. Upon startup the oil pressure was just off zero on the dash and around 7-8lbs on the mechanical gauge. If I blipped the throttle the oil pressure would go up and settle in at 15-20 lbs. At just under 2000 rpms the oil pressure would go to around 40lbs. If I revved quickly to 3500 rpms and the gauges would bury the dial (The mechanical goes up to 100 lbs, the dash 80). So anyway, the gauge in the dash was fine. When I got back home I checked the oil in the plastic container. I let it settle and poured most of it into another clean container. The stuff left in the bottom did not look very good. It had very small pieces of metal in it. Looked copper color. There was also gritty or dust like stuff settled at the bottom as well. I'll post a pic, but because of the flash and some debris from me cutting the filter it's hard to make out which stuff is the "bearings" and which stuff is the filter case. Anyway, I have to pull the motor, drop the pan and check the bearings and probably do motor work. Sux!! 2 years on this project and the motor I purchased from someone on OSO seems to be f&%ked up.


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Old 09-25-2013, 10:54 AM
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I'm thinking you have some kind of bypass or cavitation issue. Good luck with it.
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