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I've had bad balancers before that made you think it was timed right but it was not. You might try using a vacuum gage to time it and see what that tells you.
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Originally Posted by lil red
(Post 4011789)
Make 100% sure you are on the correct mark on the balancer. I've made this mistake before, if you're on the wrong mark the light will show roughly 45-50* when it starts to run right. In all reality you're at 15 or so degrees.
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Originally Posted by adk61
(Post 4011800)
if your distributor is locked out, you can set the engine timing by simply cranking the engine over, no fuel, just ignition, this will give u a correct and consistant reading to get you in the ball park, by doing this you will be eliminating fluctuation of irratic idle, cam movement, chain flex etc... 30 deg BTDC is a good place to start, once you have fuel system dialed in you should be safe up to 34 deg...
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Originally Posted by mike tkach
(Post 4011829)
have you checked the plug wires to make sure they are in the right order,sometimes people will overlook the simple things.i try to follow a satement i heard a long time ago KISS, [ keep it simple stupid],it works for me.
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Shut the pump off and drain the bowls
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Originally Posted by lil red
(Post 4011884)
Shut the pump off and drain the bowls
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*****Update*****
I called Chris at Daytona Sensor. He is their "technical guy". What as arse hole! I don't think I have every talked to anyone more condescending in my life. He basically said that everyone involved in my boat project is an idot (including me) and we need to pull the engine out and start over. He did not get any info from me other than "did the engine builder tune everything on the dyno?". I said no, and he said "it is impossible to tune a high performance engine of any kind in any environment than a dyno". Well I guess i have gotten lucky on my 8 second Camaro that I have been running for 15 years. The other thing he said is that you can not make anything other than crank trigger work in this application. He really put me over the edge when he said "look, I am not in business of talking to anyone over the phone except professional engine builders. You are wasting my time and if you are not willing to send the engine to a professional I would rather you not run my product" So the Daytona is on its way back to CP Performance and I am installing a Hardin Max Spark Box. |
*****Update*****
Pulled the distributor and the shaft is bent! Like really bent. The rotor wobbles around like crazy when I spin it. Might be my problem. I have my parts guy driving to CP Performance in Rhonert Park and picking up a New distributor, Ignition box, and coil. I am going to stay late and install it all. I will report when I am finished. Since I am **** canning that Daytona box (read previous post) I will just curve the distributor the old fashion way with springs and bushings. Any thoughts on what curve I should set up? |
10-12* max advance curve total 32-34 all in before 3,000 and yes just pull a lower bowl screw out to drain the bowls.
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I was actually wondering if the distributor needed to be phased similar to when you use the Merc hall effect distributor.
Have a friend that could not get engines to run with his HI-6M's. (similar to Daytona's) Exact same symptoms you are encountering. He did not have the rotors phased to run with the ignition boxes. Just like the rotors that Daytona Sensors sells to hook up the CD-1 to a Merc distributor. Part # 103004 Marine Rotor (required for correct phasing of CD-1 Marine applications using Mercury Marine Hall effect distributor). $24.50 http://www.daytona-sensors.com/CD1.html Glad you're dumping their product if that is the way they treated to you. |
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