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Originally Posted by Rookie
(Post 4011939)
I was actually wondering if the distributor needed to be phased similar to when you use the Merc hall effect distributor.
Have a friend that could not get engines to run with his HI-6M's. (similar to Daytona's) Exact same symptoms you are encountering. He did not have the rotors phased to run with the ignition boxes. Just like the rotors that Daytona Sensors sells to hook up the CD-1 to a Merc distributor. Part # 103004 Marine Rotor (required for correct phasing of CD-1 Marine applications using Mercury Marine Hall effect distributor). $24.50 http://www.daytona-sensors.com/CD1.html Glad you're dumping their product if that is the way they treated to you. Yea, we just ran to CP Perfornance and they swapped everything out no questions asked. They are such a great company (CP) and i know they own Hardin Marine so i am going to run thier whole system. |
Originally Posted by lil red
(Post 4011912)
10-12* max advance curve total 32-34 all in before 3,000 and yes just pull a lower bowl screw out to drain the bowls.
I just want to make I'm reading you right. |
20 - 22 initial and 10-12* mechanical advance. Total being 32-34* depending on your plug heat range, fuel, and of course how the plugs look after a wot run.
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****Update****
Things i have done Changed out Datona Box for hardin Max Volt Changed Hardin Marine dustributor twice (both units i recieved from them were junk) for MSD Marine Jetted carbs Locked out distributor advace Set time to 32* Boat is running good now. 79 GPS at 4900 rpm. Time to reprop. Im running a 28p. Any suggestions? |
Originally Posted by WCAC
(Post 4013974)
****Update****
Things i have done Changed out Datona Box for hardin Max Volt Changed Hardin Marine dustributor twice (both units i recieved from them were junk) for MSD Marine Jetted carbs Locked out distributor advace Set time to 32* Boat is running good now. 79 GPS at 4900 rpm. Time to reprop. Im running a 28p. Any suggestions? |
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