bugs need to be worked out Some general questions???
#42
I got your back!!! OOPS that did not sound good now did it.
I got ya covered!!!! OOOPS still messed up
I AGREE

Jay I have a couple questions for you
1: Is this the same motor that you had all the bent rods
2: I assume this is the same motor that pops occasionally out the carb? YES/NO??
3: If you start to see the drop in oil preasure and then you idle does the preasure come back. I am not talking about shutting down and having lunch I am talking about blasting across the water, seeing the oil preasure drop, then idleing for a bit to cool the oil down.
4: Have you pulled apart your filter to see if it is clean and free of particals, and make sure that there is no more water in your oil?
I know it sucks to hear what Audacity and I are saying right now but we are only trying to cover your butt for ya bro.
Jon
I got ya covered!!!! OOOPS still messed up
I AGREE


Jay I have a couple questions for you
1: Is this the same motor that you had all the bent rods
2: I assume this is the same motor that pops occasionally out the carb? YES/NO??
3: If you start to see the drop in oil preasure and then you idle does the preasure come back. I am not talking about shutting down and having lunch I am talking about blasting across the water, seeing the oil preasure drop, then idleing for a bit to cool the oil down.
4: Have you pulled apart your filter to see if it is clean and free of particals, and make sure that there is no more water in your oil?
I know it sucks to hear what Audacity and I are saying right now but we are only trying to cover your butt for ya bro.
Jon
__________________
Put your best foot forward!
Put your best foot forward!
#43
step (1) check timing (32 deg for now... don't push it)
step (2) check jetting!!! read the plugs
a new cam will run alot different than stock!!! even aftermarket exhaust alone may require new jetting.
step (3) check oil cooling
get an oil temp guage
filter clogged? get synthetic filter that wont clog immediately upon contact with water.
remove bypass, force oil through cooler, check for change in oil temp
my guess... popping means lean. lean means hot, hot means low oil pressure.........fix it before 100w wont plug that hole in your new piston. It's not too late..........
oh, audacity and ursus, you are in VIOLENT AGREEMENT ALREADY on the oil thing
Valvoline racing strait 40
good luck Jay. don't look at other boats... you will just frustrate yourself. enjoy this one. it's bigger than mine
step (2) check jetting!!! read the plugs
a new cam will run alot different than stock!!! even aftermarket exhaust alone may require new jetting.
step (3) check oil cooling
get an oil temp guage
filter clogged? get synthetic filter that wont clog immediately upon contact with water.
remove bypass, force oil through cooler, check for change in oil temp
my guess... popping means lean. lean means hot, hot means low oil pressure.........fix it before 100w wont plug that hole in your new piston. It's not too late..........
oh, audacity and ursus, you are in VIOLENT AGREEMENT ALREADY on the oil thing

Valvoline racing strait 40
good luck Jay. don't look at other boats... you will just frustrate yourself. enjoy this one. it's bigger than mine
#44
Registered

Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 3,345
Likes: 0
From: Michigan
that's ok jon....i understand!
i think i come accrossed here a lot as being a pessimist. really i'm just a realist. people hate to hear that..when i build an engine, do set-up, rigging, or dail in work...is it cheap? NO...do i turn a lot of work away due to customers having false ideas about what will do what in a boat?? YES....cutting corners sometimes will bite you in the ass....we're just trying to help you cover yours now.
i think i come accrossed here a lot as being a pessimist. really i'm just a realist. people hate to hear that..when i build an engine, do set-up, rigging, or dail in work...is it cheap? NO...do i turn a lot of work away due to customers having false ideas about what will do what in a boat?? YES....cutting corners sometimes will bite you in the ass....we're just trying to help you cover yours now.
#46
Okay have 2 engines in boat
Looking at the transom it is the port engine
This engine was the one that USED to be on the starboard side, they got switched in the reinstallation no big deal.
the port engine is the one that had the bent pushrods yes
Had the valve springs changed
has the oil pressure drop
Lean condition would not cause a poof though (I am not 100% sure which engine is poofing out the carb though but my money is on the same one port side engine)
To answer Audio, Okay you run down around 3200-3300 in that range with both of them and the oil PSI is 20 or thereabouts
You slow down and idle for a few minutes it is staying around 20 or so
does not drop or go back up higher
I do think the mechanical oil pressure gauge on the one engine is a damn good idea
Take the dash gauge out of the scenario and read it directly off the block
Maybe I have a crappy ground or loose wire or too badly of a corroded wire which is causing too much resistance?????
Could be a number of things but regardless that is a good place to start.
My question is what do I do with the carbs, Who sets those up?
Does not sound like engine builder does from what he said about call me back tomorrow and he was going to make a call or two.
called him and he said call back in half hour
More like he forgot and is making his calls now more or less
Unreal
Jason
Looking at the transom it is the port engine
This engine was the one that USED to be on the starboard side, they got switched in the reinstallation no big deal.
the port engine is the one that had the bent pushrods yes
Had the valve springs changed
has the oil pressure drop
Lean condition would not cause a poof though (I am not 100% sure which engine is poofing out the carb though but my money is on the same one port side engine)
To answer Audio, Okay you run down around 3200-3300 in that range with both of them and the oil PSI is 20 or thereabouts
You slow down and idle for a few minutes it is staying around 20 or so
does not drop or go back up higher
I do think the mechanical oil pressure gauge on the one engine is a damn good idea
Take the dash gauge out of the scenario and read it directly off the block
Maybe I have a crappy ground or loose wire or too badly of a corroded wire which is causing too much resistance?????
Could be a number of things but regardless that is a good place to start.
My question is what do I do with the carbs, Who sets those up?
Does not sound like engine builder does from what he said about call me back tomorrow and he was going to make a call or two.
called him and he said call back in half hour
More like he forgot and is making his calls now more or less
Unreal
Jason
#47
One last possibility (after confirming ignition timing, and jetting are correct first!!!) is that crank main bearings were wore/spun due to running with the water in the oil.
but check the other's first.
but check the other's first.
#48
Registered

Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 3,345
Likes: 0
From: Michigan
"My question is what do I do with the carbs, Who sets those up?"....holly **** dude...the ENGINE BUILDER....show me an engine from a MAJOR builder that comes minus a carb....teague, cobra, hawk, MERC...they have all done a TON of testing on the dyno to perfect a set up....call a carb shop and ask????'s....you know what they are going to ask....CAM questions....DATA....what lift at 50????...vac.....guess what....all the #'s and data that the engine builder SHOULD have! and you DON'T go by what the cam card says!!!!...
#49
Have you checked the possibility that you may have to much oil in the motor? If you have to much in an engine the pressure can drop at higher RPM because of foaming created by the rotating assembly spinning in the oil. To check your dipstick just switch with other engine, then check length of tube with the one on the other engine. If you know how much you put in each engine were they equal. Does it make any difference in pressure if you had a qt. less.
Your builder is correct in saying to use a vac gauge to adjust the carbs (an O2 sensor will give more accurate results but doesn't work with wet exhaust) but they need to be first calibrated for your engines. Then you adjust the mixture screws for max vac, if you go to far your vac and rpm will drop. Adjust one screw then the next and then repeat.
Good luck.
Your builder is correct in saying to use a vac gauge to adjust the carbs (an O2 sensor will give more accurate results but doesn't work with wet exhaust) but they need to be first calibrated for your engines. Then you adjust the mixture screws for max vac, if you go to far your vac and rpm will drop. Adjust one screw then the next and then repeat.
Good luck.
#50
Registered
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 131
Likes: 0
From: Sevierville,TN
With oil pressure problems I ALWAYS check for a bad pressure sender first, especially if it is leaking oil. Use a ohm meter, swap senders or test with a mechanical gauge.
Once I rebuilt an engine because of a faulty sender.
BTW Boat manufacturers don't always match the sender with the guage.
Once I rebuilt an engine because of a faulty sender.
BTW Boat manufacturers don't always match the sender with the guage.
Last edited by RickR; 08-13-2002 at 04:25 PM.


